Algae

What Is Algae in Skincare?

Algae extracts come from seaweeds (macroalgae such as kelp and red algae) and from single-celled microalgae such as Nannochloropsis and chlorella. In skincare they supply water-binding polysaccharides, antioxidant pigments and minerals. Some algae-based ingredients, like Pepha-Tight, also form a thin film on the skin that gives an instant tightening feel, which is where the "firming seaweed" reputation comes from.

EWG Skin Deep rating for Algae

Quick Facts

How Algae Works on the Skin

Hydration and antioxidants

Algae live in harsh conditions: salt water, strong sun and constant drying at low tide. To cope, they make compounds that are useful in skincare. A 2020 review in Marine Drugs by Thiyagarasaiyar and colleagues groups them into four classes:

• Polysaccharides (such as fucoidan, carrageenan and agar) that hold water and thicken formulas.
• Mycosporine-like amino acids, natural UV-absorbing compounds that algae make in strong sunlight.
• Carotenoids such as fucoxanthin and astaxanthin, which are antioxidants.
• Polyphenols, including phlorotannins, which the review notes can make up to 25% of the dry weight of brown algae.

The review is candid that most of this evidence comes from lab and cell studies, with few human trials. That is why an algae ingredient with its own clinical data is worth more than a generic "seaweed extract" on a label.

Instant tightening: Pepha-Tight

Pepha-Tight from DSM combines an extract of the microalga Nannochloropsis oculata with pullulan, a natural polysaccharide that dries into a smooth, invisible film. DSM's brochure reports two volunteer studies (supplier data):

• 30 volunteers applied a gel with 3% Pepha-Tight for 2 weeks. The tightening effect lasted at least 4 hours after one application, and almost 70% rated the tightening effect good or very good after 2 weeks.
• 12 volunteers applied a cream with 3% Pepha-Tight for 56 days. Silicone replicas measured an average 26% reduction in wrinkle surface and 21% in wrinkle length; cutometry measured an average 24% improvement in tonicity and 15% in elasticity.

These are small supplier studies, but they give a clear picture of what to expect: a fast, visible "tight" feel that wears off over hours, plus gradual changes in how firm skin looks with daily use.

How to Use Algae in Formulas

• Add to the water phase or a finished base at cool-down, below 40°C (104°F).
• Use the full rate for film-formers. Pepha-Tight's highest recommended rate is 5%. At the Skin Perfection house rate of 9 drops = 1% per fl oz, that is 45 drops in 1 oz of serum.
• Apply film-formers last in a water-based layer, under moisturizer, and let them dry for a minute so the film can set. Heavy oils on top can soften the effect.
• Stir gently. Polysaccharide gels trap air if blended at high speed.
• Storage. Keep boosters in their blue glass bottles and refrigerate after opening, as the Pepha-Tight label advises.

Algae firming serum (1 oz)

Measure 1 fl oz (about 30 g) of Aloe Vera Gel Serum Base. Add 45 drops (5%) of Pepha-Tight Serum Booster, cap and shake or stir for 60 seconds. Transfer to an airless bottle and apply morning and night to the face, jawline and neck. Expect the tight feel within minutes as the film dries.

Who Algae Suits

Algae extracts suit every skin type. Film-forming algae ingredients are most popular with mature skin and with anyone who wants a quick, smooth look before makeup. Sensitive skin: patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours and start at the lowest rate on the range (1% for Pepha-Tight, about 9 drops per oz), then work up to 5%. People with iodine sensitivity may prefer microalgae extracts over kelp.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does algae really tighten skin?

Some algae ingredients create an instant tightening film. In DSM's supplier study, the effect from Pepha-Tight lasted at least 4 hours after one application, and almost 70% of volunteers rated it good or very good after 2 weeks.

Is algae good for oily skin?

Yes. Algae extracts are water-based and lightweight, so they hydrate without adding oil. They work well in gels and serums.

What is the difference between kelp and microalgae?

Kelp is a large brown seaweed harvested from the ocean. Microalgae are single-celled organisms grown in tanks, which gives suppliers tight control over purity and consistency.

Can I mix algae with peptides?

Yes. Algae film-formers pair well with peptides such as Argireline and Matrixyl 3000 in a water-based serum. Add each at its own recommended rate.

How long does the tightening effect last?

In DSM's supplier data, a single application of a 3% Pepha-Tight gel kept its tightening effect for at least 4 hours. Reapply daily for a consistent look.

Is algae safe for sensitive skin?

Most algae extracts are well tolerated. Patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours and start at the lowest rate, 1% for Pepha-Tight. People with iodine sensitivity may prefer microalgae over kelp.

Shop and Learn More

Make your own firming serum with Pepha Tight Serum Booster, or choose the ready-made Neck Lift and Firm Serum with 20% Pepha Tight. Every product in this collection is shown below. For a deeper dive on one type of seaweed, read Red Algae Extract: A Formulator's Guide to Radiant Skin, and see our glossary entries on Pepha-Tight and kelp.

Sources

• Thiyagarasaiyar K, Goh BH, Jeon YJ, Yow YY. Algae metabolites in cosmeceutical: an overview of current applications and challenges. Marine Drugs. 2020;18(6):323. PMC7344841
• DSM, Pepha-Tight brochure (2020): INCI Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Pullulan; 1 to 5% use level; 30-volunteer 2-week and 12-volunteer 56-day studies at 3% (supplier data).
• Skin Perfection product page: Pepha Tight Serum Booster, recommended usage 1 to 5%.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.