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Alpha Lipoic Acid
What Is Alpha Lipoic Acid in Skincare?
Alpha lipoic acid (ALA) is a small, sulfur-containing antioxidant that the body makes in tiny amounts and that is also found in foods like spinach, broccoli, and organ meats. In skincare it is used, usually at 1 to 5%, to help skin look smoother, brighter, and less weathered by sun exposure. It stands out because it can work in both water- and oil-loving parts of the skin and helps recycle other antioxidants, such as vitamins C and E.
EWG Skin Deep rating for alpha lipoic acid
Alpha Lipoic Acid Quick Facts
| Property | Details |
|---|---|
| INCI name | Thioctic Acid |
| Common names | Alpha lipoic acid, ALA, lipoic acid, thioctic acid |
| Source | Made by synthesis for cosmetics; occurs naturally in plant and animal tissues |
| Form | Pale yellow crystalline powder with a faint sulfur smell |
| Solubility | Poorly soluble in water; dissolves in alcohol, propanediol, and warm oils. Its salt, sodium lipoate, is water soluble |
| Typical usage rate | 1 to 5%; the main human study used 5% |
| pH | Works in mildly acidic products, about pH 4.5 to 6 |
| Skin types | Normal, combination, oily, and sun-exposed mature skin; use with care on sensitive skin |
How Alpha Lipoic Acid Works on the Skin
A flexible antioxidant
Sun, pollution, and normal skin metabolism create free radicals that break down the look of smooth, even skin over time. ALA and its reduced form, dihydrolipoic acid, neutralize several kinds of free radicals and help regenerate other antioxidants, including vitamin C, vitamin E, and glutathione. Because ALA has both water- and oil-friendly character, it can reach places that vitamin C (water loving) or vitamin E (oil loving) alone cannot.
What the clinical study measured
The key human study is a 2003 randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial by Hans Beitner in the British Journal of Dermatology. Thirty-three women with an average age of 54 applied a cream with 5% alpha lipoic acid to one half of the face and an identical cream without ALA to the other half, twice a day for 12 weeks. Self-assessment, clinical grading, photographs, and laser profilometry all favored the ALA side. Laser profilometry measured a 50.8% average decrease in skin roughness on the ALA side, compared with 40.7% on the plain cream side. In other words, both creams helped, and the ALA cream helped more.
Older claims that ALA is "400 times stronger than vitamin C and E" have no reliable source and have been removed from this page.
How to Use Alpha Lipoic Acid in Formulas
- Usage rate: up to 5%, the level tested in the clinical study. That is 1.5 g of powder in a 30 g (1 oz) product.
- Dissolving: ALA does not dissolve well in plain water. Pre-dissolve it in a small amount of warm propanediol, ethanol, or the oil phase before adding it to the formula.
- Heat: ALA melts at about 60°C (140°F) and can clump or degrade with prolonged heat. Add it during cool-down, around 40 to 45°C (104 to 113°F).
- Light and air: protect it from light and oxygen. Use opaque or airless packaging, and pair it with vitamin E to support stability.
- pH: keep the finished product mildly acidic, about pH 4.5 to 6.
- Pairings: works well with vitamin C, vitamin E, and other antioxidants, and fits into peptide serums.
- Storage: keep the raw powder sealed, cool, and dark.
Who Alpha Lipoic Acid Suits
ALA suits normal, combination, and oily skin, and mature skin that shows the look of sun exposure, roughness, or dullness. Its light texture makes it a good fit for serums.
Sensitive skin: ALA can tingle or sting, especially at 5%. Patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours and start at the lowest rate, 1%, then work up as your skin allows. Apply sunscreen during the day, as with any antioxidant routine.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does alpha lipoic acid do for your face?
It is an antioxidant that helps skin look smoother and brighter. In a 12-week study, a 5% ALA cream was linked to a greater drop in measured skin roughness than the same cream without ALA.
What are the side effects of alpha lipoic acid on skin?
The most common reaction is tingling or stinging, especially at 5%. Some people notice a faint sulfur smell, which is normal. Patch test first and start at 1% if your skin is sensitive.
Can I use alpha lipoic acid with vitamin C?
Yes. ALA helps regenerate vitamin C and vitamin E, so the three are often used together in antioxidant serums.
Can I use alpha lipoic acid every day?
Most people can use a well-formulated ALA product once a day once their skin is used to it. Start every other day for the first week or two.
Why does my ALA product smell like sulfur?
ALA contains sulfur atoms, so a faint sulfur scent is normal. A strong odor or color change can mean the product has degraded.
Is taking ALA as a supplement the same as using it on skin?
No. Supplements and topical products are different. The skin results described here come from a topical cream study, and you should talk with your doctor before starting any supplement.
Shop Alpha Lipoic Acid Skincare
Find alpha lipoic acid in the Liquid Facelift Collagen Serum, shown below. For how ALA fits into a full antioxidant routine, see our antioxidant serum guide.
Sources
- Beitner H. Randomized, placebo-controlled, double blind study on the clinical efficacy of a cream containing 5% alpha-lipoic acid related to photoageing of facial skin. British Journal of Dermatology. 2003;149(4):841-849. PubMed 14616378 (33 women, 12 weeks, split face)
These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.