Ginseng

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What Is Ginseng in Skincare?

Ginseng is the root of plants in the genus Panax, most often Asian ginseng (Panax ginseng) and American ginseng (Panax quinquefolius). In skincare it is used as a root extract rich in ginsenosides, saponins that researchers study for their antioxidant activity and their effect on the look of skin tone, firmness, and moisture. Ginseng is often called a skin energizer because it helps tired, dull skin look brighter and more awake, and it contains no caffeine.

Ginseng Quick Facts

Property Details
INCI name Panax Ginseng Root Extract (also Panax Quinquefolium Root Extract)
Common names Asian ginseng, Korean ginseng, red ginseng (steamed and dried root), American ginseng
Source Root of Panax species, cultivated mainly in Korea, China, and North America
Forms Liquid extract (water, glycerin, or propanediol base), powdered extract, ginseng seed or berry oil
Solubility Root extracts: water soluble. Seed oil: oil soluble
Key constituents Ginsenosides (such as Rb1, Rg1, Rg3, and compound K), polysaccharides, peptides, phenolic compounds
Typical usage rate Depends on extract strength; a human study used a 3% red ginseng extract cream. Follow your supplier's data sheet
Skin types All skin types, especially dull, tired-looking, and mature skin

How Ginseng Works on the Skin

Ginsenosides: the active family

Ginsenosides are triterpene saponins found almost only in Panax plants. Researchers group them by structure into protopanaxadiol and protopanaxatriol types, and each type behaves a little differently. A 2023 systematic review in the Journal of Ginseng Research (Cong and colleagues) gathered the lab and animal research on ginsenosides and skin aging. The studies it summarizes measured lower oxidation, lower melanin formation, and higher collagen and hyaluronic acid levels in skin models. Most of that evidence is from cells and animals, so it explains how ginseng may act rather than proving results on human faces.

Tone and brightness

In a 2020 study, Saba and colleagues tested Korean red ginseng extract in three ways. In pigment cells in the lab, the extract lowered tyrosinase activity (the enzyme that starts melanin production) and melanin output. In hairless mice exposed to UVB light, it was linked to fewer wrinkles and less breakdown of collagen. In people, the team applied a cream with 3% red ginseng extract and measured higher skin resilience, higher skin moisture, and a more even skin tone. The published abstract does not give the number of volunteers or the length of the human test.

Antioxidant support

Like many root extracts, ginseng brings antioxidant compounds that help a formula defend against free radicals from sun and pollution, which contribute to the look of dullness and fine lines. Antioxidants work best alongside daily sunscreen, not in place of it.

Why it is called caffeine free energy

Ginseng is not related to caffeine and contains none. Its reputation as a skin energizer comes from the way it helps tired skin look more radiant, which makes it a popular choice in eye creams and morning serums for people who prefer to skip caffeine.

How to Use Ginseng in Formulas

  • When to add: water-soluble ginseng extracts go into the water phase or the cool-down phase below 40°C (104°F) to protect the more delicate compounds.
  • pH: comfortable in the pH 4.5 to 6.5 range used for most face and eye products.
  • Pairings: ginseng works well with ginkgo biloba, green tea, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and amino acid sequences such as Argireline in eye and expression line products.
  • Color and scent: extracts can add a light amber tint and a faint earthy scent.
  • Preservation: any water-based product with ginseng needs a broad-spectrum preservative.
  • Storage: keep extracts sealed, cool, and out of direct light.

Who Ginseng Suits

Ginseng suits most skin types and is especially popular for tired-looking skin, the eye area, and mature skin that has lost some bounce. Because it is caffeine free, it is a good option for people who find caffeine products too stimulating.

Sensitive skin: patch test any new ginseng product on the inner arm for 24 hours. Start with the lowest recommended amount and use it every other day before moving to daily use.

Ginseng FAQ

What does ginseng do for your face?

Ginseng helps skin look brighter, more even, more hydrated, and more rested. Its ginsenosides and antioxidants support a formula's defense against the look of environmental aging.

Is red ginseng better than regular ginseng for skin?

Red ginseng is the same root, steamed and dried, which changes its ginsenoside profile. Much of the skin research, including the human cream test above, used red ginseng, but both forms are used in skincare.

Can I use ginseng around my eyes?

Yes. Ginseng is a common eye cream ingredient because it helps the under-eye area look brighter and more awake.

Does ginseng contain caffeine?

No. Ginseng is caffeine free, which is why it is often chosen as an energizing alternative to caffeine in eye products.

Shop Ginseng Skincare

Find ginseng in the Uplift Eye Cream and the Expression Line Deep Wrinkle Serum, or browse every product in this collection below. To compare ginseng with other antioxidant ingredients, visit our antioxidants glossary or read our guide to antioxidants in face creams.

Sources

  • Saba E, Kim SH, Lee YY, et al. Korean Red Ginseng extract ameliorates melanogenesis in humans and induces antiphotoaging effects in ultraviolet B-irradiated hairless mice. Journal of Ginseng Research. 2020;44(3):496-505. doi:10.1016/j.jgr.2019.05.003 (cell, mouse, and human cream study)
  • Cong L, Ma J, Zhang Y, Zhou Y, Cong X, Hao M. Effect of anti-skin disorders of ginsenosides: a systematic review. Journal of Ginseng Research. 2023;47(5):605-614. DOAJ record (review)

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.