Gotu Kola, Centella Asiatica

What Is Gotu Kola (Centella Asiatica) in Skincare?

Gotu kola is the common name for Centella asiatica, a low-growing herb in the parsley family that grows in wet, tropical areas of Asia. In skincare it is used as a soothing, comforting botanical and for the look of firmer, more resilient skin. Its activity comes from four triterpenoid compounds: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. You will also see it marketed as "cica."

EWG Skin Deep rating for gotu kola (Centella asiatica)

Quick Facts

How Gotu Kola Works on the Skin

Total saponin content in the plant ranges from about 1 to 8% depending on where it is grown, which is why standardized extracts matter. Bylka and colleagues reviewed the cosmetic research in 2013 (Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii) and summarized three main lines of evidence.

Collagen support (lab research)

In lab studies on human dermal fibroblasts, asiaticoside increased type I collagen synthesis, and madecassoside has been described as a collagen-expression signal through the same pathway. These are cell studies, not results in people, but they explain why centella is so common in firming formulas.

Firmness and hydration (human study)

The review describes a randomized, double-blind study by Haftek and colleagues in 20 women aged 45 to 60 with sun-aged skin. They applied a cream with 0.1% madecassoside plus 5% vitamin C for six months. Biometric testing measured significant improvements in firmness, elasticity and skin hydration. Because madecassoside was combined with vitamin C, the result shows what the pair can do together, not centella alone.

Stretch marks (human study)

In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study summarized in the same review (Mallol and colleagues, 1991), pregnant women applied a cream containing centella extract, vitamin E, hydrolyzed collagen and elastin daily from the third month of pregnancy. Of 80 women who completed it, 22 in the placebo group developed stretch marks compared with 14 in the cream group. Again, this was a multi-ingredient cream.

The comforting reputation is what most people notice first: centella creams feel calming on skin that looks red or stressed after sun, wind or exfoliation.

How to Use Gotu Kola in Formulas

• Water phase, cool-down. Add liquid centella extracts to the water phase or at cool-down below 40°C (104°F).
• Standardized powders are potent. A 40% triterpene extract is used at only 0.1 to 0.2%. That is 0.1 to 0.2 g per 100 g of product, so weigh it on a 0.01 g scale. Pre-dissolve it in a little propylene glycol, propanediol or warm water before adding.
• Pairs well with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides and vitamin C. It is a common partner for exfoliating acids because it gives the formula a more comfortable feel.
• Preserve it. Any water-based product with plant extracts needs a broad-spectrum preservative.
• Storage. Keep extracts sealed, cool and out of light. Liquid extracts can darken over time; that is usually cosmetic, but follow the supplier's shelf life.

Simple centella hydrating serum (100 g)

Weigh 99 g of Aloe Vera Gel Serum Base. Separately dissolve 0.2 g of 40% standardized centella extract (the supplier's highest rate) in 0.8 g propanediol, then stir it into the base for 60 seconds. Apply morning and night under moisturizer. The aloe base is already preserved, so no other additions are needed at these amounts.

Who Gotu Kola Suits

Centella is one of the most widely tolerated botanicals, and it suits sensitive, dry, mature and combination skin. It is a good choice for anyone using retinoids or acids who wants a more comfortable routine. Sensitive skin: patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours and start at the lowest rate on the supplier's range. Rarely, people react to plants in the parsley family.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does centella asiatica do for skin?

Centella gives skin a calm, comfortable feel and supports the look of firmer, better-hydrated skin. In one human study summarized by Bylka 2013, a cream with madecassoside and vitamin C improved measured firmness, elasticity and hydration over six months.

Is gotu kola the same as cica?

Yes. Cica is a marketing name for Centella asiatica, popular in Korean skincare. Gotu kola, tiger grass and Indian pennywort are other names for the same plant.

Can I use centella with retinol?

Yes. Centella is often paired with retinol to make a routine feel more comfortable. Introduce the retinol slowly as usual.

Is centella good for oily skin?

Yes. It is water-based and weightless, so it works well in gels and toners for oily and combination skin.

Is centella safe for sensitive skin?

It is one of the most widely tolerated botanicals. Patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours and start at the lowest rate on the supplier's range. Rarely, people react to plants in the parsley family.

Can I use centella every day?

Yes. Centella products are gentle enough for morning and night use. Apply them before heavier creams.

Shop and Learn More

Centella-friendly products in this collection include our Ageless Advanced Peptide Moisturizer and the Aloe Vera Gel Serum Base for DIY serums, shown below with the full collection. For recipes and a full guide, see Centella Asiatica Extract: A Practical Guide for Skincare. Related entries: collagen and teprenone.

Sources

• Bylka W, Znajdek-Awiżeń P, Studzińska-Sroka E, Brzezińska M. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii. 2013;30(1):46-49. PMC3834700 (summarizes the Haftek and Mallol human studies and the fibroblast collagen research cited above)
• Spec-Chem, Ingredients Catalogue 2026 V1: SpecPure CAE Centella Asiatica Extract, total triterpenes 40% min, dosage 0.1 to 0.2% (supplier data).

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.