Raspberry

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What Is Raspberry in Skincare?

Raspberry in skincare comes from the red raspberry plant, Rubus idaeus, and is used in three main forms: a fruit extract rich in antioxidant polyphenols, a cold-pressed seed oil rich in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, and leaf or cell-culture extracts. The fruit extract is used to help protect the look of skin from environmental stress and support a brighter complexion; the seed oil is a light, fast-absorbing emollient for dry and mature skin.

EWG Skin Deep score for Raspberry EWG Skin Deep rating for Raspberry

Raspberry is a supporting ingredient, not an exfoliating acid or a sunscreen. Two popular claims about it, that it is a strong natural source of salicylic acid and that its seed oil has a high SPF, do not hold up, and this entry explains why.

Quick Facts

INCI names Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract; Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil; Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Leaf Extract
Common names Red raspberry, European raspberry, raspberry seed oil
Source Fruit, seeds (a by-product of juice and jam making), and leaves of Rubus idaeus
Forms Fruit extract (water or glycerin based liquid, or powder); seed oil (pale yellow liquid)
Solubility Fruit extract: water phase. Seed oil: oil phase
Typical usage rate Seed oil: 1% to 100% (supplier range; can be used neat). Fruit extract: follow the supplier's data sheet for the specific extract
Key compounds Fruit: ellagitannins and ellagic acid, anthocyanins, vitamin C. Seed oil: about 53% omega-6 and 32% omega-3 fatty acids (supplier data), plus tocopherols
Skin types Normal, dry, mature, and combination skin; seed oil also suits oily skin in small amounts

How Raspberry Works on the Skin

Antioxidant protection (fruit extract)

Raspberries are rich in ellagitannins, ellagic acid, and anthocyanins (the red pigments). These polyphenols neutralize free radicals created by UV light and pollution, which helps protect the look of firmness, tone, and smoothness over time.

In a study by Wang and colleagues (Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, 2019), an ethanol extract of red raspberry was tested on human skin cells and on the skin of hairless mice before UVB exposure. In the cells, the extract reduced UVB-induced oxidative stress and cell death. In the mice (5 per group, 5 days of UVB), skin that received the extract before UV exposure showed less wrinkling, scaling, dryness, and redness, smaller increases in water loss, and higher levels of the skin's own antioxidant enzymes. This was lab and animal research, not a human cosmetic trial.

Hydration and softness (seed oil)

Raspberry seed oil is about 85% polyunsaturated fat, with a high share of linoleic acid (omega-6) and alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3). Linoleic acid is a building block of the skin's barrier lipids, so the oil helps dry skin feel softer and smoother without a heavy finish.

Leaf cell-culture extracts

Newer raspberry ingredients are made from plant cell cultures. A 2015 study reported in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science by Italian ingredient developers found that a raspberry leaf cell-culture extract increased hydration-related genes in skin cells in the lab and showed a hydrating effect on human skin. Results are specific to that extract.

Two myths, corrected

  • Salicylic acid. Raspberries contain natural salicylates, but only in trace amounts. A raspberry extract does not exfoliate like a salicylic acid product with a stated percentage and pH. If you want BHA exfoliation, use a measured salicylic acid product.
  • SPF. Claims that raspberry seed oil has an SPF of 28 to 50 are often traced to a 2000 Food Chemistry paper by Oomah and colleagues that characterized the oil, including its UV absorbance. A lab absorbance reading is not an SPF test. No carrier oil is a sunscreen, so always wear a tested broad-spectrum SPF.

How to Use Raspberry in DIY Formulas

  • Seed oil goes into the oil phase, or use it on its own as a face oil (up to 100%, the top of the supplier range). Because it is so high in polyunsaturated fats, it oxidizes faster than most oils. Add vitamin E at 0.5% to 1%, avoid heating it for long, add it in the cool-down phase of emulsions when you can, and store it cold and dark.
  • Fruit extract goes into the water phase or cool-down phase below 40°C (104°F). Water-based extracts need a broad-spectrum preservative in the finished product.
  • Do not use fresh berries in leave-on products. Mashed fruit spoils within hours, carries microbes, and can stain or irritate skin.
  • Color. Fruit extracts can tint formulas pink to red; anthocyanin color shifts with pH.
  • Packaging. Use amber glass or airless bottles to slow oxidation.

For a full guide to the oil, including how it compares with other face oils, read Unlocking Your Glow with Raspberry Seed Oil.

Who Raspberry Suits

Raspberry fruit extract suits most skin types as an antioxidant. Raspberry seed oil suits dry, normal, and mature skin, and its light texture works for combination skin. People with a berry allergy or a known salicylate sensitivity should avoid raspberry ingredients. If you have sensitive skin, patch test first on the inner arm for 24 hours and start at the lowest rate (1% seed oil blended into another product), then work up.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does raspberry do for your skin?

Raspberry fruit extract supplies antioxidant polyphenols, such as ellagic acid and anthocyanins, that help protect the look of skin from UV and pollution stress. Raspberry seed oil softens and smooths dry skin with omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Together they support a brighter, smoother, more even-looking complexion.

Does raspberry seed oil protect from the sun?

No. It absorbs some UV light in lab tests, but it is not a sunscreen and has no tested SPF. Always use a tested broad-spectrum sunscreen and think of raspberry seed oil as an antioxidant-rich emollient underneath it.

Is raspberry a natural source of salicylic acid?

Only in trace amounts. Raspberries contain natural salicylates, but not enough to exfoliate the way a salicylic acid product with a stated percentage does. For BHA exfoliation, choose a measured salicylic acid formula.

Can I put fresh raspberries on my face?

It is not a good idea for leave-on use. Mashed fruit spoils within hours, carries microbes, can stain, and its fruit acids can sting sensitive skin. A preserved raspberry extract or a fresh, properly stored seed oil gives you the benefits more safely.

Is raspberry seed oil good for oily skin?

Yes, in small amounts. It is light, absorbs quickly, and is high in linoleic acid. Use 2 to 3 drops after serum, or blend it at a low percentage into a lightweight lotion.

What is the difference between raspberry extract and raspberry seed oil?

The extract is water based and supplies antioxidant polyphenols. The oil is a lipid that supplies fatty acids for softness and a smoother feel. Many formulas use both, the extract in the water phase and the oil in the oil phase.

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Sources

  • Wang PW, Cheng YC, Hung YC, et al. Red Raspberry Extract Protects the Skin against UVB-Induced Damage with Antioxidative and Anti-inflammatory Properties. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2019;2019:9529676. doi:10.1155/2019/9529676. PMC
  • Oomah BD, Ladet S, Godfrey DV, Liang J, Girard B. Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil. Food Chemistry. 2000;69(2):187-193.
  • Raspberry leaf cell-culture extract study, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015, as reported by CosmeticsDesign. CosmeticsDesign

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.