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Bakuchiol, The Natural Retinol Alternative
What Is Bakuchiol in Skincare?
Bakuchiol (pronounced ba-koo-chee-all) is a plant compound from the seeds of the babchi plant, Psoralea corylifolia. It is not a retinoid and is not related to vitamin A, but in skin studies it produced a similar pattern of gene activity to retinol and a similar improvement in the look of wrinkles and uneven tone, with less dryness and stinging. That is why it is called a natural retinol alternative.
Bakuchiol Quick Facts
| Property | Details |
|---|---|
| INCI name | Bakuchiol (pure compound); Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Extract or Bakuchiol Extract (extracts) |
| Common names | Bakuchiol, babchi, bio-retinol, plant retinol alternative |
| Source | Seeds of Psoralea corylifolia; first isolated in 1966 |
| Form | Pure bakuchiol is an oily liquid; extracts can be supplied in glycerin and water |
| Solubility | Pure bakuchiol is oil soluble; glycerin and water extracts blend into water-based formulas |
| Typical usage rate | Pure bakuchiol: 0.5-1% (the studied level was 0.5%). Skin Perfection Bakuchiol Serum Booster (a glycerin and water extract): 3-15%, top rate 15% or 135 drops per fl oz |
| Babchi oil | A carrier oil from the same plant containing about 3% bakuchiol; not the same ingredient |
| Skin types | All skin types, including skin that finds retinoids too drying; sensitive skin with a patch test |
How Bakuchiol Works on the Skin
A retinol-like pattern without being a retinoid
In a 2014 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, Chaudhuri and Bojanowski compared the gene expression profiles that bakuchiol and retinol produced in skin models and found them very similar, including activity on collagen-related genes. In the same paper, a bakuchiol product used twice daily for 12 weeks improved the look of lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, and firmness. The number of volunteers is not given in the summaries we could verify.
The head-to-head study
The study that made bakuchiol famous was published in the British Journal of Dermatology by Dhaliwal and colleagues. Forty-four people were randomly assigned to 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice daily or 0.5% retinol cream once daily for 12 weeks, with photos at weeks 0, 4, 8, and 12. Both groups showed a significant decrease in wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistically significant difference between them. At week 12, hyperpigmentation had improved in 59% of the bakuchiol group and 44% of the retinol group, and the retinol group reported more scaling and stinging.
That is a small study, but it is randomized and double-blind, which makes bakuchiol one of the better-supported botanical actives.
How to Use Bakuchiol: Formulating Notes
- Know which bakuchiol you have: Pure bakuchiol (INCI Bakuchiol) is oil soluble and used at 0.5-1%. A glycerin and water bakuchiol extract, like the Skin Perfection booster, is a diluted material used at a higher percentage, 3-15%.
- Rate for the Skin Perfection booster: Use 15%, the top of the range. At the house rate of 9 drops = 1% per fluid ounce, that is 135 drops (about 4.5 g) per 1 oz.
- Base: Use the water-soluble booster in water-based serums, gels, and creams. Use pure bakuchiol in face oils or the oil phase of an emulsion.
- Phase: Add at cool-down below 40°C (104°F).
- Pairing: Bakuchiol pairs with peptides such as Matrixyl 3000, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C. It is also blended with retinol in some formulas.
- Storage: Refrigerate the booster and keep it in its blue glass bottle away from light.
15% Bakuchiol Booster Serum (1 oz)
- Pour 1 fl oz of a water-based serum or gel, such as a hyaluronic acid serum, into a clean bottle.
- Add 135 drops (about 4.5 g) of Bakuchiol Serum Booster for 15%.
- Cap and shake well.
- Apply morning and night to clean skin, with sunscreen in the morning.
Bakuchiol vs Retinol at a Glance
| Bakuchiol | Retinol | |
|---|---|---|
| Type | Plant compound, not a retinoid | Vitamin A (retinoid) |
| Studied level | 0.5% twice daily | 0.5% once daily (same study) |
| Look of wrinkles and spots at 12 weeks | Improved; no significant difference from retinol | Improved |
| Scaling and stinging | Less | More |
| Time of day | Morning and night | Night |
Who Bakuchiol Suits
Bakuchiol suits anyone who wants retinol-style results for the look of fine lines, texture, and uneven tone but finds retinoids too drying or irritating. It also suits people who prefer plant-derived actives.
Sensitive skin: Patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours first. Start at the lowest rate, 3% of the Skin Perfection booster (27 drops per oz) or 0.5% pure bakuchiol, and work up. Allergic reactions to bakuchiol are uncommon but have been reported. We found no published studies of bakuchiol in pregnancy, so ask your doctor before using it while pregnant or nursing.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does bakuchiol do for skin?
Bakuchiol helps skin look smoother and more even, with softer fine lines and less visible discoloration. In a 12-week randomized study, 0.5% bakuchiol improved the look of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation as much as 0.5% retinol.
Is bakuchiol as good as retinol?
In the one head-to-head randomized study, there was no statistically significant difference between them for the look of wrinkles and spots after 12 weeks. Bakuchiol caused less scaling and stinging, but the study was small, with 44 people.
Can you use bakuchiol and retinol together?
Yes. Some formulas combine them, and bakuchiol can also be used in the morning with retinol at night. Introduce one at a time so you know how your skin responds.
Can I use bakuchiol in the morning?
Yes. The Dhaliwal study used bakuchiol twice daily, morning and night. Always follow with sunscreen during the day.
How long does bakuchiol take to work?
Plan on about 12 weeks of consistent use. Both key studies measured their results at 12 weeks.
Is bakuchiol safe during pregnancy?
We found no published studies of bakuchiol in pregnancy. It is often suggested as a retinol alternative, but ask your doctor before using it while pregnant or nursing.
How much bakuchiol should I use?
Pure bakuchiol is used at 0.5-1%. The Skin Perfection Bakuchiol Serum Booster is a diluted extract used at 3-15%, so 15% is 135 drops per fluid ounce.
Shop Bakuchiol
Add bakuchiol to your own serum with the Bakuchiol Serum Booster. To choose between actives, read bakuchiol vs retinol vs peptides.
Sources
- Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology. 2019;180(2):289-296. doi:10.1111/bjd.16918 (human study, n = 44, 12 weeks)
- Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2014;36(3):221-230. PubMed 24471735
- Formula Botanica, The Bakuchiol Workbook: pure bakuchiol usage 0.5-1%, babchi oil about 3% bakuchiol, first isolated 1966 (training material)
- Skin Perfection, Bakuchiol Serum Booster product page: INCI and 3-15% usage rate
These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.