Coconut Oil

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What Is Coconut Oil in Skincare?

Coconut oil is a rich plant fat pressed from the meat (kernel) of the coconut, Cocos nucifera. It is about half lauric acid, a saturated fatty acid, which makes it solid at cool room temperature and gives it a soft, cushioning feel. In skincare it is used as an emollient for dry skin, a base for body butters, balms, and scrubs, and the starting material for many gentle cleansing ingredients.

EWG Skin Deep score for coconut oil EWG Skin Deep rating for coconut oil

Coconut also shows up in other forms on ingredient lists, including fermented coconut used in natural preservatives.

Coconut Oil Quick Facts

Property Details
INCI name Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil
Common names Coconut oil, virgin coconut oil (VCO), fractionated coconut oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
Source Pressed coconut kernel; virgin oil is pressed from fresh meat without refining
Fatty acids Lauric 45.1-53.2%, myristic 16.8-21.0%, caprylic 4.6-10.0%, palmitic 7.5-10.2%, capric 5.0-8.0%, oleic 5.0-10.0%, linoleic 1.0-2.5% (Codex Standard 210)
Form White solid below about 24°C (76°F); clear liquid above
Solubility Oil soluble; add to the oil phase
Typical usage rate Up to 100% in anhydrous products such as balms, body oils, and scrubs; in creams and lotions it is part of the oil phase
Skin types Dry and normal skin, body, hands, feet, and lips; use with care on congestion-prone facial skin

How Coconut Oil Works on the Skin

Coconut oil is an emollient and occlusive. It fills in the gaps between dry surface cells, so skin looks smoother, and it leaves a light film that slows water loss from the surface. Because its fatty acids are mostly saturated, it resists oxidation better than many plant oils and has a long shelf life.

The best human evidence is for dry skin. In a randomized, double-blind controlled trial of 34 people with mild to moderate dry skin (xerosis), virgin coconut oil was compared with mineral oil as a moisturizer. Both improved skin hydration and surface lipid levels, coconut oil performed about as well as mineral oil with a trend toward better results, and both were equally well tolerated (Agero and Verallo-Rowell, 2004).

What coconut oil does not do: older versions of this page described it as a superfood that regenerates skin structures and supplies nutrients. Those are not cosmetic claims and have been removed. Coconut oil also is not a sunscreen.

How to Use Coconut Oil in Formulas

  • Anhydrous products: Balms, body butters, sugar scrubs, and massage oils can use coconut oil at up to 100% of the oil phase. Products with no water do not need a preservative, but keep water out of the jar.
  • Creams and lotions: Melt coconut oil with the oil phase and emulsifier at about 70-75°C (158-167°F), then combine with the water phase. Any product that contains water needs a broad-spectrum preservative. Leucidal SF Complete, a Lactobacillus and coconut ferment, is used at 2-4%; use 4% for formulas with botanical extracts or that will sit at room temperature (supplier guidance).
  • Texture tips: Coconut oil can turn grainy if cooled slowly. Chill a balm quickly after pouring for a smooth finish. Blend with shea butter or a liquid oil to soften the feel.
  • Fractionated coconut oil: Caprylic/capric triglyceride stays liquid and feels much lighter, so it is the better choice for facial serums and roll-ons.
  • Storage: Cool, dark place. Shelf life is generally long because the oil is mostly saturated.

Other Common Uses: Hair, Lips, and Makeup Removal

  • Hair: A small amount smoothed through the lengths before shampooing, or a tiny dab on dry ends, softens the look of frizz and adds shine.
  • Lips: Coconut oil is a common lip balm and lip scrub base. For a simple balm, melt it with beeswax so it holds its shape in warm weather.
  • Makeup removal: Massage onto dry skin, then wipe off with a warm, damp cloth and follow with your usual cleanser.

Who Coconut Oil Suits

Coconut oil is a good fit for dry, rough skin on the body, hands, feet, elbows, and lips, and as a rich makeup-removing cleansing oil that you rinse off. On the face it can feel heavy, so people with oily or congestion-prone skin often prefer fractionated coconut oil or a lighter oil such as jojoba.

Sensitive skin: Patch test on the inner arm and wait 24 hours. Try it first on a small area of the body before using it on the face, and stop if you notice redness or congestion. Coconut allergy is uncommon, but anyone with a known coconut allergy should avoid it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is coconut oil good for your face?

It suits dry facial skin and works well as a rinse-off cleansing oil. Because it is rich, people prone to clogged pores often do better with fractionated coconut oil, which stays liquid and feels lighter.

Does coconut oil clog pores?

It can for some people. Coconut oil is heavy and mostly saturated, so oily or congestion-prone skin may end up with clogged pores when it is left on the face. Try it on a small area first, or use it only as a cleansing oil that you rinse off.

Can coconut oil get rid of wrinkles?

No. Coconut oil softens dry skin, and well-moisturized skin makes fine dryness lines look less noticeable, but it does not change wrinkle depth. For the look of wrinkles, choose ingredients such as retinol or peptides.

Can I leave coconut oil on my face overnight?

Dry skin often tolerates a thin layer overnight. If your skin is oily or you are prone to clogged pores, use it as a cleansing oil instead and follow with a lighter moisturizer.

What is the difference between virgin and refined coconut oil?

Virgin coconut oil is pressed from fresh coconut meat and keeps its coconut scent. Refined oil is processed to remove scent and color. Both have the same main fatty acids.

Is coconut oil good for hair?

Yes, as a softening pre-shampoo mask or a light finishing touch on dry ends. Use a small amount so hair does not look greasy.

Is coconut oil better than shea butter?

They feel different and suit different products. Coconut oil melts into a slick oil, while shea butter is softer and creamier. See our guide Shea Butter vs Coconut Oil for Skin.

Shop and Learn More

Products in this collection include the coconut-ferment preservative Leucidal SF Complete with Lactobacillus and Coconut, Leucidal Complete, and the Eye Bright Argireline Cream, all shown below. For recipes and a full guide, read Organic Virgin Coconut Oil Guide for Healthy Skin and Hair, and see our shea butter glossary entry.

Sources

  • Agero AL, Verallo-Rowell VM. A randomized double-blind controlled trial comparing extra virgin coconut oil with mineral oil as a moisturizer for mild to moderate xerosis. Dermatitis. 2004;15(3):109-116.
  • Codex Alimentarius. Codex Standard for Named Vegetable Oils (CODEX STAN 210-1999), Table 1: fatty acid composition of coconut oil. FAO
  • Skin Perfection, Leucidal SF Complete Q&A: usage rate 2-4% (supplier data).

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.