Expression Lines

Showing 3 of 3 products

What Are Expression Lines?

Expression lines are the creases that form where your face moves most: horizontal lines across the forehead, the vertical "11s" between the brows, crow's feet at the eye corners, and the little "bunny lines" on the nose. They start as dynamic lines that show only when you frown, raise your brows, or smile, and over the years they can start to stay visible at rest. Wrinkle-relaxing peptides, firming peptides, hydration, and sun protection can measurably soften how they look.

The look of expression lines on the forehead and around the mouth

Why Expression Lines Form

Under the skin of the forehead and brow sit small muscles that lift the brows and pull them together. Each contraction folds the skin along the same line. In young skin, collagen and elastin snap the surface back flat. Over time, three things change:

  • Repetition. Thousands of frowns, squints, and raised brows fold the same creases again and again.
  • Less bounce. Collagen and elastin decline with age, so the crease takes longer to smooth out, and eventually stays.
  • Sun and lifestyle. UV exposure speeds up the loss of firmness, and squinting in bright light adds more folding. In a study of 350 adults, current smokers were about 2.7 times more likely than nonsmokers to have moderate to severe facial wrinkling after adjusting for age (Koh and colleagues, 2002).

Which expression lines do you have?

Line Where Movement behind it
Forehead lines Horizontal across the forehead Raising the brows
11s (frown lines) Vertical, between the brows Frowning, concentrating, squinting
Crow's feet Outer eye corners Smiling, squinting
Bunny lines Sides of the nose Scrunching the nose, laughing

For the eye area, see our crow's feet guide; for set-in lines across the face, see the wrinkles guide.

The At-Home Routine for the Look of Expression Lines

Morning

  1. Peptide serum on the forehead, between the brows, and at the eye corners.
  2. Moisturizer to keep the surface plump and smooth.
  3. Broad-spectrum sunscreen, SPF 30 or higher, plus sunglasses to cut down on squinting.

Evening

  1. Peptide serum again; the studies below used twice-daily application.
  2. Retinol two or three nights a week for lines that stay visible at rest, if your skin tolerates it.
  3. Moisturizer or night cream.

Ingredients That Help the Look of Expression Lines

Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-8)

Argireline is the original wrinkle-relaxing peptide and is often called a topical Botox alternative. It is not Botox: it is an amino acid sequence modeled on part of a protein involved in muscle contraction, and its effect is gentler and gradual. In the first published study, Blanes-Mira and colleagues (2002) had 10 women apply a cream with 10% Argireline, and wrinkle depth was reduced by up to 30% after four weeks, compared with up to 10% for the plain cream; it was a small study. In a larger randomized, placebo-controlled study of 60 adults, twice-daily Argireline for 4 weeks significantly reduced skin roughness around the eyes (Wang and colleagues, 2013).

Argireline Amplified is Lubrizol's newer version. The supplier reports that skin looked 5 years younger in 5 days and that, combined with botulinum toxin injections, it helped extend the look of the injection results by 8 weeks; Lubrizol's recommended use level is 2% to 5% (supplier data).

Syn-Ake (dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate)

Syn-Ake is a small amino acid complex that formulators reach for on vertical lines such as the 11s. In DSM's 28-day study, women aged 41 to 60 (15 per group) applied 4% Syn-Ake twice daily, and the supplier measured smoother skin and reduced wrinkle depth on both the crow's feet and the forehead compared with placebo (supplier data).

Firming peptides and hydration

Lines that stay at rest also need support. Matrixyl type peptides and hyaluronic acid soften the look of set-in creases; see the wrinkles guide for those studies.

Realistic Timelines

  • Same day: hydration softens fine creases.
  • 5 days to 4 weeks: supplier and clinical studies of relaxing peptides measured changes from 5 to 28 days.
  • 2 to 6 months: firming peptides and retinol work over months on lines that stay at rest.

Topicals will not freeze movement the way an injection does, and that is part of their appeal: your face stays expressive while the lines look softer.

How to Choose a Product for Expression Lines

  • Pick a relaxing peptide for moving lines. Argireline, Snap-8, and Syn-Ake suit forehead lines, 11s, and crow's feet.
  • Add firming peptides for resting lines. Multi-peptide serums cover both needs.
  • Check the rates. Studies used specific concentrations: 10% Argireline solution, 4% to 5% Syn-Ake, up to 5% Argireline Amplified.
  • Sensitive skin: patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours, start at the lowest recommended rate, and work up.

Products in This Collection

For a deeper look at frown lines, read our guide to the anti-aging serum for frown lines and deep wrinkles.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between expression lines and wrinkles?

Expression lines are creases caused by facial movement, so they show up where you frown, smile, or raise your brows. Wrinkles is the broader term and includes set-in lines from age and sun. Expression lines often become wrinkles once they stay visible at rest.

At what age do expression lines start?

Many people notice forehead lines or 11s in their late 20s or 30s, first only with movement. They tend to stay visible at rest from the 40s on, earlier with a lot of sun or smoking.

What are 11 lines?

The 11s are the two vertical frown lines between the eyebrows, named for their shape. They come from frowning, squinting, and concentrating, and they are one of the most common expression lines.

Do peptides work like Botox?

No topical works like an injection, and peptides are not Botox. Wrinkle-relaxing peptides such as Argireline and Syn-Ake give a gentler, gradual softening of moving lines, with no needles and no frozen look.

How can I soften forehead lines at home?

Use a wrinkle-relaxing peptide serum twice a day, a moisturizer, and daily sunscreen. Add retinol a few nights a week for lines that stay visible at rest, and give the routine at least four weeks.

Can you stop expression lines from deepening?

You cannot stop facial movement, but you can slow how fast lines set in. Daily sunscreen, sunglasses, not smoking, and consistent use of peptides and moisturizer protect the skin's firmness so creases bounce back longer.

Sources

  • Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G, et al. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2002;24(5):303-310. doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00153.x
  • Wang Y, Wang M, Xiao S, et al. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of Argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, in Chinese subjects: a randomized, placebo-controlled study. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. 2013;14(2):147-153. doi:10.1007/s40257-013-0009-9
  • Koh JS, Kang H, Choi SW, Kim HO. Cigarette smoking associated with premature facial wrinkling: image analysis of facial skin replicas. International Journal of Dermatology. 2002;41(1):21-27. PubMed 11895509
  • Lubrizol, Argireline Amplified peptide solution product data sheet, 2025 (supplier data).
  • DSM, SYN-AKE master presentation, 2013 (supplier data).

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.

References are made to third-party trademarks. SYN is a trademark of DSM; Argireline is a trademark of Lipotec S.A. (Lubrizol) and its affiliates. Skin Perfection is not affiliated with these trademark owners.