Relistase

What Is Relistase in Skincare?

Relistase is a firming amino acid sequence made by Lipotec, now part of Lubrizol. Its INCI name is Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine, a tetrapeptide supplied in glycerin. It is used in serums and creams for the look of firmer, more elastic skin, especially on the jawline, neck and cheeks, because it is designed to slow elastase, the enzyme that breaks down skin's elastin.

EWG Skin Deep rating for Relistase

One correction to a common mix-up: Relistase is not GHK (glycyl-histidyl-lysine) and it is not a soy protein fragment. It is its own four-part sequence.

Quick Facts

How Relistase Works on the Skin

Elastin and the look of sagging

Elastin is the springy protein that lets skin snap back. Elastase, an enzyme, breaks it down, and its activity rises with age and sun exposure. When elastin is lost faster than it is made, skin looks looser and slower to recover after you pinch it. Relistase is built to slow elastase and support collagen I, the main structural protein.

What the supplier data shows

Lipotec's launch data, reported in Happi in 2012 (supplier data), includes:

• Lab: the sequence inhibited human elastase in a dose-dependent way, by up to 86% at the highest concentration tested, and increased type I collagen made by human skin fibroblasts by 99% at 21 µM.
• Volunteers: 20 volunteers applied a cream with 4% Relistase solution or a placebo cream to the thighs twice a day for 8 weeks. Skin elasticity measured by instrument improved by 11.7% and 14.0% over the study, and maximal deformation (how far skin stretches under suction) decreased by 5.5% at 4 weeks and 15.6% at 8 weeks.

These are the manufacturer's own small studies, and the volunteer test was on thighs rather than faces. They are still useful because they tell us the tested rate (4%) and a realistic timeline (4 to 8 weeks).

Relistase vs. instant tighteners

Pairing one long-term peptide with one instant film-former gives both today's lift and gradual change.

How to Use Relistase in Formulas

• Use the tested rate. 4% is 36 drops in 1 fl oz (about 1.2 g in 30 g) at the Skin Perfection house rate of 9 drops = 1% per fl oz.
• Add cool. Stir into the water phase at cool-down, below 40°C (104°F), or into a finished serum or lotion.
• Keep pH moderate. Like most amino acid sequences, it is best kept out of very low pH acid products; use it at a different time of day from strong glycolic or salicylic products.
• Stacks well with Matrixyl 3000, Argireline, hyaluronic acid and the film-formers Pepha-Tight and Ten's Up.
• Storage. Keep the dropper bottle capped, cool and out of light. Refrigeration after opening helps preserve potency.

Jawline firming serum (1 oz)

Measure 1 fl oz (about 30 g) of Aloe Vera Gel Serum Base into an airless bottle. Add 36 drops (4%) of Relistase Firming Serum Booster and 45 drops (5%, Pepha-Tight's highest rate) of Pepha Tight Serum Booster. Cap and shake for 30 seconds. Apply morning and night to the jawline, neck and cheeks, sweeping upward.

Who Relistase Suits

Relistase suits mature skin and anyone who wants the look of firmer, bouncier skin on the face, jawline or neck. It is water-based and fragrance-free, so it fits oily, dry and combination routines. Sensitive skin: patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours. Relistase is sold at a single 4% rate, so for very reactive skin, start by using the finished serum every other day before moving to daily use.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Relistase?

Relistase is Lipotec's trade name for acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, a tetrapeptide supplied in glycerin. It is designed to slow elastase and support collagen I. In skincare it is used for the look of firmer, more elastic skin.

How much Relistase should I use?

Use 4%, the rate on the Skin Perfection product page and in the supplier's volunteer test. That is 36 drops per fluid ounce of serum or lotion. Using more is not shown to help.

How long does Relistase take to work?

In the supplier's 8-week volunteer test, elasticity was measured at 4 and 8 weeks. Plan on at least 4 to 8 weeks of twice-daily use. For a same-day lift, pair it with Pepha-Tight or Ten's Up.

Can I mix Relistase with other peptides?

Yes. It works well with Matrixyl 3000, Argireline and copper peptides in a water-based serum. Add each at its own recommended rate and keep the total water-phase additions within what your base can hold.

Is Relistase the same as copper peptide (GHK-Cu)?

No. GHK is a three-part sequence (glycine, histidine, lysine) that carries copper. Relistase is a different four-part sequence aimed at elastase.

Where should I apply Relistase?

Anywhere skin looks loose, most often the jawline, neck, cheeks and under the eyes. Apply it to clean skin before moisturizer, morning and night.

Shop and Learn More

Blend your own with Relistase Firming Serum Booster, or choose the ready-made Neck Lift and Firm Serum with 20% Pepha Tight, both shown below. For a comparison of firming sequences, read Top Skin Tightening Peptides, and see our entries on sagging neck and jowls and Pepha-Tight.

Sources

• Happi. Lipotec Relistase launch report, August 23, 2012: in vitro elastase and collagen I data; 20-volunteer, 8-week test of a 4% Relistase cream versus placebo (supplier data). happi.com
• Lubrizol, Relistase peptide solution technical listing: INCI Glycerin (and) Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine; tetrapeptide; elastase inhibition and collagen I support (supplier data). specialchem.com
• Skin Perfection product page: Relistase Firming Serum Booster, recommended usage 4%.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.