Neutrazen (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8)
What Is Neutrazen (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8) in Skincare?
Palmitoyl tripeptide-8 is a three amino acid sequence attached to palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it sit well in the skin's surface layers. Neutrazen is the trade name of the best-known version, supplied by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (now part of Clariant). It is used in serums and creams for skin that looks calmer, less flushed, and more comfortable.
EWG Skin Deep rating for Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 (Neutrazen)
The sequence is biomimetic: it is modeled on alpha-MSH, a messenger the skin itself makes as part of its comfort and calming signals. That is why suppliers describe it as a "neurocosmetic."
Quick Facts
| INCI name | Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8; Neutrazen is supplied as Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Dextran (and) Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 |
|---|---|
| Common names | Neutrazen, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, PT-8; SpecPed PT8P is another supplier grade |
| Source | Lab-made amino acid sequence (histidine, D-phenylalanine, arginine) linked to palmitic acid |
| Form | Liquid solution (trade grades) |
| Solubility | Trade solutions are water soluble |
| Typical usage rate | Follow the supplier's technical data sheet. Lucas Meyer's published human tests used a formula containing the peptide at 4 micromoles per liter. Blends that contain it, such as SpecPed SoothFine, list 1% to 10% |
| Preservative | Neutrazen is sold preservative free, so add a preservative to your finished formula |
| Skin types | Sensitive, reactive, easily flushed, dry, and mature skin; all skin types |
How Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 Works on the Skin
When skin meets a trigger such as UV, a harsh cleanser, shaving, or wind, surface cells release messenger proteins (for example IL-8) that lead to visible redness and a warm, tight feeling. Palmitoyl tripeptide-8 is designed to mimic alpha-MSH, which the skin uses to tone those signals down, so the look of redness and the feeling of discomfort settle faster.
What the research measured
The published data come from the supplier. In a 2017 article in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Estelle Loing of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics reported:
- Lab cells. In UVB-exposed keratinocytes, the peptide lowered IL-8 release by 32%, similar to alpha-MSH. In fibroblasts stimulated with IL-1, IL-8 dropped by 64%.
- Skin samples. In four donated skin explants exposed to substance P, the size of dilated vessels fell by 51% and swelling by 60% compared with control.
- Pre-exposure test in people. Eight volunteers applied a cream with the peptide three times a day for 8 days and then received a 24-hour patch of 0.5% SDS, a standard irritant. The rise in skin temperature, used as a measure of visible flushing, was reduced compared with SDS alone.
- Soothing test in people. Thirteen volunteers received the SDS patch first and then applied the cream three times a day from day 2 to day 4. The temperature rise was 78% lower on average.
These are small, supplier-run tests with placebo results described but not shown, and no statistics were published, so read them as encouraging supplier data rather than independent proof.
How to Use Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 in DIY Formulas
- When to add. Add the solution in the cool-down phase below 40°C (104°F), as with most amino acid sequences.
- How much. Use the top of the rate on your supplier's data sheet. If you buy it inside a blend, follow that blend's range (for example, 10% for SpecPed SoothFine, the top of its 1% to 10% range).
- pH. Follow the pH range on your supplier's data sheet.
- Compatibility. Pairs well with hyaluronic acid, panthenol, allantoin, aloe, and other amino acid sequences such as Matrixyl 3000 in a water-based serum.
- Preserve. Neutrazen contains no preservative, so use a broad-spectrum preservative in any water-based product.
Who It Suits
Palmitoyl tripeptide-8 is made for sensitive, reactive, and easily flushed skin, for skin that feels tight after shaving, peels, or retinol, and for anyone who wants a calming step in an active routine. If you have sensitive skin, patch test any new product on the inner arm for 24 hours and start at the lowest rate on the supplier's range, then work up.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does palmitoyl tripeptide-8 do for skin?
It helps skin look calmer and less red and feel more comfortable after triggers like UV, shaving, or harsh products. It mimics alpha-MSH, one of the skin's own calming messengers.
Is palmitoyl tripeptide-8 good for sensitive skin?
Yes, it was developed for sensitive and reactive skin. In supplier tests with 8 and 13 volunteers, a cream with the peptide reduced the flushing caused by a standard irritant. Patch test first, as with any new product.
Is Neutrazen the same as palmitoyl tripeptide-8?
Neutrazen is a trade name for a ready-to-use solution of palmitoyl tripeptide-8 in water, butylene glycol, and dextran. Other suppliers sell the same INCI under different names.
Can I use palmitoyl tripeptide-8 with retinol or acids?
No published incompatibility was found, and its calming purpose makes it a logical partner for retinol or acid routines. Apply it in a serum or moisturizer after your active step, and patch test the combination first.
How is it different from Matrixyl or Argireline?
Matrixyl sequences are aimed at the look of firmness and wrinkles, and Argireline at expression lines. Palmitoyl tripeptide-8 is aimed at visible redness and comfort, so it complements them rather than replacing them.
How long does it take to see results?
In the supplier's soothing test, skin flushing was measured 2 days after starting the cream. No longer studies on everyday redness have been published, so judge a product over several weeks of steady use.
Shop and Learn More
We do not currently sell palmitoyl tripeptide-8 on its own. For a calming companion in a peptide routine, our Matrixyl 3000 Serum Booster contains palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, a sequence associated with skin that looks calmer and more even in tone. Read our guide to peptides for sensitive skin, browse our anti-aging peptides, and see the matrikin glossary entry for how signal peptides work.
Sources
- Loing E (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics). Reaching a Zen-like State in Skin: Biomimetic Peptide to Balance Sensitivity. Cosmetics and Toiletries, May 2017 (supplier data). Cosmetics and Toiletries
- Clariant / Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Neutrazen product page (supplier data: INCI, preservative free, mechanism). Supplier page
- Spec-Chem Ingredients Catalogue 2026 and PEPTIDES+ catalogue (supplier data: SpecPed PT8P, SpecPed SoothFine 1% to 10%, water soluble).
These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.