Pumpkin

What Is Pumpkin in Skincare?

Pumpkin in skincare means several different ingredients from the same plant: pumpkin fruit extract or puree (used in enzyme masks and peels), pumpkin seed oil (a linoleic-rich emollient), and, more recently, purified pumpkin polysaccharides (moisture-binding plant sugars). Together they are used for skin that looks smoother, brighter, and better hydrated.

EWG Skin Deep rating for Pumpkin

The ingredients behave very differently, so check which part of the pumpkin a product uses before you judge what it can do.

Quick Facts

How Pumpkin Works on the Skin

Enzyme masks and peels

Pumpkin fruit extracts are sold as a source of natural enzymes and fruit acids, and pumpkin is a popular ingredient in enzyme peels and at-home masks. Exfoliating enzymes and acids are used to loosen dull surface cells so they rinse away, leaving skin that looks brighter and feels smoother. Dermatologists quoted in trade press describe pumpkin enzymes as a gentler exfoliant but warn they can still cause redness on reactive skin or when layered with strong acids. No published controlled study of a pumpkin enzyme peel was found, so results depend on the specific product.

Seed oil for softness

Pumpkin seed oil is high in linoleic acid, a fatty acid the skin's barrier lipids use. It softens skin and helps slow water loss, much like other linoleic-rich oils.

Polysaccharides for hydration

Pumpkin polysaccharides are long sugar chains that hold water on the skin's surface, in the same family of humectants as hyaluronic acid.

What the research measured

• In a 2022 study (Chanpirom, Saewan, and Sripisut, journal Cosmetics), polysaccharides purified from Japanese pumpkin (Cucurbita maxima) were tested on the inner forearms of 15 women aged 20 to 25. A single application at 0.05% and 0.1% raised measured skin hydration over 3.5 hours, more at the higher concentration, and a patch test showed no irritation.
• In a later study in the same journal (Chanpirom and colleagues, Cosmetics, volume 13), 33 volunteers aged 30 to 50 used a cream with 2% pumpkin seed oil and 0.1% pumpkin polysaccharide. Hydration rose by more than 50% within 15 minutes of one application, and after 14 days the cream gave higher hydration and lower water loss than the base cream without the pumpkin ingredients.

How to Use Pumpkin in DIY Formulas

• Seed oil. Add to the oil phase of creams or use in face oils. It is dark and strongly scented, so blend it with lighter oils such as jojoba. Supplier range: up to 100%.
• Polysaccharides. Disperse in the water phase. Use 0.1%, the highest level tested, in serums and creams.
• Fruit extracts and enzyme blends. Add in the cool-down phase below 40°C (104°F), since heat can deactivate enzymes. Follow the supplier's rate; if none is given, do not guess. Rinse-off masks are the safest format.
• Fresh pumpkin. Kitchen pumpkin puree spoils within days. Use it once, then discard it, and do not try to preserve a fresh-food mask.
• Preserve and store. Water-based pumpkin extracts need a broad-spectrum preservative. Keep seed oil cool and dark, since linoleic-rich oils oxidize quickly.

Who Pumpkin Suits

Pumpkin seed oil and polysaccharides suit most skin types, including dry and mature skin. Enzyme masks suit normal, oily, and dull-looking skin; leave them on for the time on the label and rinse well. If you have sensitive skin, patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours and start at the lowest rate (0.05% for polysaccharides) or the shortest mask time, then work up. Avoid pumpkin if you are allergic to squash family plants.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does pumpkin do for your skin?

It depends on the form. Pumpkin enzyme masks exfoliate for a brighter look, pumpkin seed oil softens, and pumpkin polysaccharides add hydration. In a 14-day study, a cream with pumpkin seed oil and polysaccharides improved hydration more than a base cream.

Is a pumpkin enzyme peel good for sensitive skin?

It is described as gentler than strong acids, but it can still cause redness. Patch test first, keep the contact time short, and do not layer it with glycolic or other strong acids.

Is pumpkin seed oil good for your face?

Yes, for most skin types. It is rich in linoleic acid and leaves skin soft. Blend it with a lighter oil if you dislike its color or scent.

Does pumpkin contain AHAs?

Pumpkin extracts are marketed as a source of natural fruit acids and enzymes, which is why they are used in peels. The amount is rarely stated and varies by product, so a pumpkin mask is not a substitute for a measured AHA product.

How often should I use a pumpkin mask?

Follow the product directions. Because enzyme masks exfoliate, start with once a week and increase only if your skin stays comfortable.

Can I use pumpkin with retinol?

Use enzyme masks on nights you skip retinol to avoid over-exfoliating. Pumpkin seed oil and polysaccharides can be used alongside retinol.

Shop and Learn More

We do not currently sell a pumpkin product. For a gentle acid step, see our Alpha Hydroxy Probiotic Cleanser with lactic acid, and for a humectant like the pumpkin polysaccharides in the studies, our Hyaluronic Acid Serum. For more fruit ingredients, read fruit-based DIY beauty recipes and our alpha hydroxy acid glossary entry.

Sources

• Chanpirom S, Saewan N, Sripisut T. Alternative Utilization of Vegetable Crop: Pumpkin Polysaccharide Extract and Their Efficacy on Skin Hydration. Cosmetics. 2022;9(6):113. doi:10.3390/cosmetics9060113. MDPI
• Chanpirom S, et al. Pumpkin seed oil and pumpkin polysaccharide liquid crystal emulsion, clinical hydration study. Cosmetics. 13(2):49. doi:10.3390/cosmetics13020049. DOI
• Scianna T. The Effectiveness of Pumpkin Enzymes in Skin Care. Skin Inc., 2021 (dermatologist commentary). Skin Inc.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.