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Tamanu Oil
What Is Tamanu Oil in Skincare?
Tamanu oil is a thick, green to yellow-green oil pressed from the nut kernels of the Calophyllum inophyllum tree, a tropical coastal tree that grows across the South Pacific, including French Polynesia. It is unusual among plant oils because 10 to 20% of it is a resin rich in plant compounds called neoflavonoids and coumarins, including calophyllolide. In skincare it is used for skin that looks calmer, smoother, and more even, and for the look of marks and rough texture.
EWG Skin Deep rating for Tamanu Oil
In French Polynesia it has a long history of traditional use on the skin, which is what first brought it to cosmetic researchers.
Tamanu Oil Quick Facts
| Property | Details |
|---|---|
| INCI name | Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil |
| Common names | Tamanu, tamanu seed oil, Alexandrian laurel oil |
| Source | Cold-pressed dried nut kernels; yield 40 to 60% oil by weight |
| Form | Viscous liquid, yellow-green to dark green; may turn cloudy or solid below about 25°C (77°F) |
| Scent | Strong, nutty, walnut-like |
| Solubility | Oil soluble; goes in the oil phase |
| Fatty acids (average of 5 oils) | Stearic 30.2%, linoleic 25.5%, oleic 23.6%, palmitic 16.5% |
| Resin fraction | 10 to 20%: calophyllolide, inophyllums, calanolides, tamanolides |
| Typical usage rate | 1 to 100% (supplier data, Ephyla); can be used neat |
| Shelf life | Up to 18 months stored properly (supplier data) |
| Skin types | Normal, dry, combination, and blemish-prone skin; sensitive skin with a patch test |
How Tamanu Oil Works on the Skin
A balanced fatty acid profile
A 2018 review by Raharivelomanana and colleagues averaged five tamanu oils and found that roughly half the oil is saturated fat (stearic and palmitic acids, 41 to 52%), with the rest split between oleic acid (20 to 26%) and linoleic acid (21 to 29%). The high stearic acid gives tamanu its rich, cushiony feel and explains why it thickens in a cool room. The linoleic acid adds the light, skin-friendly fatty acid found in fast-absorbing oils.
The resin is what makes tamanu different
Tamanu carries a 10 to 20% resin fraction plus 0.15 to 0.85% unsaponifiables such as squalene and plant sterols. In the same review, resin compounds such as inophyllum E showed strong antioxidant activity in a standard lab test (DPPH), and the oil absorbed ultraviolet light across roughly 260 to 400 nm. That UV absorption does not make tamanu a sunscreen; keep using a tested broad-spectrum SPF.
What skin cell studies have measured
The 2018 review reports lab work on human skin cells: a tamanu oil emulsion at 0.25 to 1% raised keratinocyte growth by 10 to 40% and fibroblast collagen production by 10 to 40% in cell cultures, and a 1% emulsion closed a scratch made in a layer of fibroblasts within 14 hours. These were cell culture tests, not tests on people. No controlled study on volunteers was found that measured tamanu oil on the look of skin, so read these results as early evidence.
How to Use Tamanu Oil
- Neat: Warm 1 to 2 drops between your fingertips and press onto clean skin, or onto a small area such as a rough patch or mark. The supplier range goes up to 100%, so neat use is within it.
- Blended: Many people prefer it diluted for scent and texture. A face oil of 1 part tamanu to 3 parts jojoba or another light oil is easy to wear.
- In creams and balms: Add to the oil phase. Its stearic acid content helps body and richness in balms.
- Cloudy or solid oil: This is normal below about 25°C. Set the closed bottle in warm water until it turns clear, then shake.
- Storage: Keep tightly closed, away from light and heat. Supplier data lists up to 18 months.
- Eyes: The supplier rates it as moderately irritating to eyes, so keep it away from the eye area.
Who Tamanu Oil Suits
Tamanu suits dry and normal skin that wants a rich, comforting oil, and skin with marks or uneven texture that you want to look smoother. If you are prone to clogged pores, use it as a spot oil or at a low percentage in a blend first, because no verified comedogenic rating was found.
Tamanu oil comes from a tree nut. If you have a tree nut allergy, talk to your doctor before using it. Tamanu oil is for external use only; do not swallow it.
Sensitive skin: patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours, and start at the low end of the range (a few percent in a carrier oil) before working up.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is tamanu oil good for in skincare?
Tamanu oil is used for skin that looks calmer, smoother, and more even, and for the look of marks and rough patches. It combines a rich fatty acid profile with a 10 to 20% resin fraction of plant antioxidants. Most of the supporting research is on skin cells in the lab rather than on people.
Does tamanu oil clog pores?
There is no verified comedogenic rating for tamanu oil. Because it is rich and about 30% stearic acid, try it on a small area or as a spot oil first if you are prone to clogged pores.
Can I use tamanu oil on my face every day?
Yes, once a patch test shows your skin is comfortable with it, tamanu can be used daily as a night oil or under moisturizer. Keep it away from the eye area.
Should I dilute tamanu oil?
You do not have to. Supplier data lists a usage range of 1 to 100%, so it can be used neat. Diluting 1 part tamanu in 3 parts jojoba softens the strong scent and thick texture.
Is tamanu oil safe if I have a nut allergy?
Tamanu oil is pressed from a tree nut, so people with a tree nut allergy should talk to their doctor before using it. Anyone can patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours before full use.
Why is my tamanu oil cloudy or solid?
Tamanu is about 30% stearic acid, a fat that firms up when cool, so it often turns cloudy or solid below about 25°C. Warm the closed bottle in warm water and it will clear again.
What does tamanu oil smell like?
Unrefined tamanu oil has a strong, nutty, walnut-like smell. Blending it with an unscented carrier oil such as jojoba makes the scent milder.
Shop Related Oils
Skin Perfection does not currently sell tamanu oil. For a ready-made blend of plant oils, see the Rejuvenate Anti-Aging Serum Base, made with evening primrose, rosehip, borage, and jojoba oils. Compare a lighter, linoleic-rich oil in our noni seed oil entry, browse beauty oils, or read our guide to the benefits of beauty oils.
Sources
- Raharivelomanana P, Ansel J-L, Lupo E, Mijouin L, Guillot S, Butaud J-F, Ho R, Lecellier G, Pichon C. Tamanu oil and skin active properties: from traditional to modern cosmetic uses. OCL. 2018;25(5):D504. doi:10.1051/ocl/2018048 (review of composition, lab, and cell studies)
- Ephyla, Tamanu Tahiti Oil overview: INCI, 1 to 100% usage rate, tolerance, storage (supplier data)
These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.