Amla Fruit Extract

What Is Amla in Skincare?

Amla, or Indian gooseberry (Phyllanthus emblica, also called Emblica officinalis), is a sour green fruit long used in Ayurvedic beauty care. In skincare, amla fruit extract is used as an antioxidant and brightening ingredient for a more even, radiant-looking complexion, and amla oil is popular in hair care.

EWG Skin Deep rating for amla fruit extract

Amla is often called a natural source of vitamin C, but the standardized extracts used in cosmetics get most of their antioxidant power from small tannins called emblicanins. That is good news for formulators: those tannins are far more stable than pure vitamin C.

Quick Facts

How Amla Works on the Skin

Antioxidant protection

Amla's tannins neutralize free radicals created by UV light and pollution, which helps protect the skin's lipids and collagen from oxidative stress. In the manufacturer's testing, the standardized extract kept its antioxidant activity after 12 months at 45°C (113°F), a level of stability that pure vitamin C cannot match.

A brighter, more even look

Antioxidants that calm oxidative stress also help limit the extra melanin that UV exposure triggers. Used daily with sunscreen, amla extract helps skin look brighter and more even in tone.

What the research measured

• A 2002 report in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (Chaudhuri) summarized the manufacturer's studies of a standardized amla extract. In a repeat-insult patch test on 100 people it was not an irritant or sensitizer, and it was not phototoxic in 20 people. In three 9-week studies on skin types III and IV, 2% amla extract significantly improved a colorimeter measure of skin lightness from baseline, by an amount comparable to 2% hydroquinone in groups of 13 Asian and 13 Hispanic participants, and 1% amla extract was compared with 3% magnesium ascorbyl phosphate in 16 participants. The author worked for the extract's manufacturer.
• In a 2008 lab study summarized by the Evigrade ingredient database (Fujii and colleagues), amla extract raised procollagen and lowered MMP-1, a collagen-breaking enzyme, in human skin cells. That was a test on cells, not on people.

Other human trials have tested amla only in combination with other actives, so its individual contribution in those products is unknown.

How to Use Amla in DIY Formulas

• Dissolve it in water first. Stir the powder into a small amount of distilled water, then add it to the water phase or a ready-made gel base.
• Use 2%, the top of the manufacturer range, for a brightening serum: about 0.6 g in 1 fl oz (30 g).
• Keep the pH below 6. Check with pH strips and adjust with a little citric or lactic acid if needed.
• Protect it from heat and light. Prolonged heat or sunlight darkens amla formulas. Add it in the cool-down phase below 40°C (104°F) and package in opaque or amber bottles.
• Pairings. Amla works well with niacinamide, licorice, alpha arbutin, and hyaluronic acid.
• Preserve. Use a broad-spectrum preservative in any water-based formula.

Simple amla brightening gel (1 fl oz)

• 1 fl oz (about 30 g) aloe vera gel base
• 0.6 g standardized amla fruit extract (2%), dissolved in 1 teaspoon distilled water

Stir the dissolved extract into the gel until smooth, check that the pH is below 6, and store in an opaque pump bottle. Apply in the morning under sunscreen.

Who Amla Suits

Amla suits normal, oily, combination, dull, and mature skin and anyone who wants a brighter, more even-looking tone. Its slightly astringent feel is popular with oily skin. If you have sensitive skin, patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours first and start at the lowest rate (1%), then work up to 2%.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does amla do for your skin?

Amla extract is an antioxidant that helps protect skin from free radicals and helps it look brighter and more even in tone. In manufacturer studies, a 2% standardized extract improved a measure of skin lightness over 9 weeks. It suits most skin types.

Is amla a good source of vitamin C for skin?

Amla fruit contains vitamin C, but standardized amla extracts get most of their antioxidant activity from tannins called emblicanins. Those tannins are much more stable than pure vitamin C, which makes amla easier to formulate with. It complements a vitamin C serum rather than replacing it.

Can amla brighten the look of dark spots?

It can help. In manufacturer studies, 2% amla extract improved a colorimeter measure of skin lightness on medium skin tones. Use it daily with sunscreen and give it at least 8 to 9 weeks, the length of those studies.

Can I put amla powder on my face?

Food-grade amla powder is sometimes mixed into rinse-off masks, but it is gritty, acidic, and not standardized. For leave-on products, choose a cosmetic-grade standardized extract and use it at 1% to 2%. Patch test any homemade mask first.

Is amla safe for sensitive skin?

In a manufacturer patch test on 100 people, the standardized extract was not an irritant or sensitizer. Its low pH can still tingle on reactive skin. Patch test first and start at 1%.

Is amla good for hair?

Amla oil and powders are traditional hair care ingredients used for conditioning and shine. For a full guide, read our article on pure amla oil for hair.

Shop and Learn More

Skin Perfection does not currently sell an amla product. For a ready-made brightening serum, try the Vitamin C Serum with Hyaluronic Acid, or make the gel above with our Aloe Vera Gel Base. Read more in our glossary entries on vitamin C and alpha arbutin.

Sources

• Chaudhuri RK. Low molecular weight tannins as a new class of skin-lightening agent. J Cosmet Sci. 2002;53(5):305-306. Presented at the 2002 Annual Scientific Seminar. Journal of Cosmetic Science
• Evigrade, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract ingredient profile (summary of Fujii 2008 fibroblast study and combination trials). Ingredient profile

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.