Chicory Root

What Is Chicory Root in Skincare?

Chicory root (Cichorium intybus) is the root of the blue-flowered plant best known as a coffee substitute. In skincare it is used for its oligosaccharides and inulin, sugar-based molecules that hold water and, in specialized ingredients, form a film that gives an instant tightening feel. Chicory root is the main active in Ten's Up, a botanical skin-tightening booster, and it also appears in moisturizers as a hydrating, barrier-friendly extract.

EWG Skin Deep rating for chicory root

Quick Facts

How Chicory Root Works on the Skin

Instant tightening film

Chicory root oligosaccharides and tara gum are natural polysaccharides. As a serum dries, they form a thin, flexible film that contracts slightly, so skin feels and looks tighter within minutes. Provital's Ten's Up data sheet reports an in vivo test in 15 volunteers aged 40 to 65 who applied one dose of a solution containing 10% Ten's Up around the eyes. A lifting effect was measured at 5 minutes and lasted at least 2 hours (supplier data).

The same sheet reports an ex vivo skin test: a serum with 5% or 10% Ten's Up was applied daily for 6 days and collagen was measured against a placebo, with 0.01% retinol as a comparison. Provital describes the collagen results for Ten's Up as comparable to the retinol control (supplier data). Ex vivo means donated skin samples in the lab, not people.

Hydration and barrier support

Chicory root extract has also been studied as a hydrating ingredient. In a 2017 study by Paseto, Wagemaker and Maia Campos (Biomedical and Biopharmaceutical Research), 15 volunteers applied a formula with a chicory root extract or the same formula without it to the arm, forearm and face. Skin water content, water loss (TEWL) and microrelief were measured at 2 hours, 45 days and 90 days. Only the formula with chicory extract maintained barrier function and hydration under low-humidity conditions.

How to Use Chicory Root in Formulas

• Water phase or finished base. Ten's Up is water-soluble. Add it to a gel, serum or lotion at cool-down, below 40°C (104°F), or simply to a finished product.
• Use the full rate for lift. Provital tested the instant effect at 10%. At the Skin Perfection house rate of 9 drops = 1% per fl oz, that is 90 drops in 1 oz.
• Let it dry. Apply as the last water-based layer, wait a minute for the film to set, then moisturize lightly. Heavy oils on top can soften the effect.
• Pairs well with peptides such as Argireline and Matrixyl 3000, hyaluronic acid, and the algae film-former Pepha-Tight.
• Storage. Keep the dropper bottle refrigerated and protected from light, as the product page advises.

Instant-lift eye and jawline serum (1 oz)

Measure 1 fl oz (about 30 g) of Aloe Vera Gel Serum Base into a clean airless bottle. Add 90 drops (10%) of Ten's Up Skin-Tight Booster. Cap and shake for 30 seconds. Smooth a thin layer over the eye area, jawline and neck, let it dry for a minute, and apply makeup or moisturizer on top.

Who Chicory Root Suits

Chicory root suits most skin types, and the tightening film is especially popular with mature skin and before events or makeup. Sensitive skin: patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours and start at the lowest rate on the range, 5% (45 drops per fl oz), then work up to 10%. Skip it if you are allergic to chicory, endive or other plants in the daisy (Asteraceae) family.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does chicory root really tighten skin?

In Provital's supplier test, a 10% Ten's Up solution produced a measured lifting effect at 5 minutes that lasted at least 2 hours. It is a temporary film effect, so reapply daily.

What does chicory root do for skin?

Chicory root sugars hold water and, in specialized ingredients, form a thin tightening film. In a 2017 study of 15 volunteers, a formula with chicory root extract maintained skin hydration and barrier function in low humidity better than the same formula without it.

Is chicory root the same as inulin?

Inulin is one of the main carbohydrates in chicory root. Cosmetic chicory ingredients use these root sugars and oligosaccharides for hydration and film-forming.

Can I use Ten's Up with Pepha-Tight?

Yes. Both are water-based film-formers, and they are often layered or blended for the look of firmer skin. Add each at its own recommended rate.

Is chicory root safe for sensitive skin?

Usually, at cosmetic rates. Chicory is in the daisy family, so anyone allergic to ragweed or chamomile should patch test carefully, starting at 5%.

Is drinking chicory coffee good for skin?

This entry covers topical use only. Talk to your doctor about any herbal supplement.

Shop and Learn More

Make your own instant-lift serum with Ten's Up Skin-Tight Booster, or use the ready-made Ageless Advanced Peptide Moisturizer, both shown below. For a broader routine, see How to Tighten Loose Skin Naturally, and compare other film-formers in our algae and skin tightening and firming entries.

Sources

• Paseto TR, Wagemaker TAL, Maia Campos PMBG. Immediate and long-term effects of a cosmetic formulation containing Cichorium intybus root extract. Biomedical and Biopharmaceutical Research. 2017. Lusofona repository
• Provital (CareActives), Ten's Up technical data sheet: INCI, 5 to 10% use level, 15-volunteer lifting test at 10%, 6-day ex vivo collagen test (supplier data).
• Skin Perfection product page: Ten's Up Skin-Tight Booster, recommended use rate 5 to 10%.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.