Chlorella

What Is Chlorella in Skincare?

Chlorella is a single-celled freshwater green microalga, most often Chlorella vulgaris. In skincare it is used either as a whole dried powder in masks or, more often, as a water-based extract rich in amino acids, peptides, and sugars, added to serums, eye creams, and moisturizers for skin that looks firmer, smoother, and more hydrated.

EWG Skin Deep score for Chlorella EWG Skin Deep rating for Chlorella

Chlorella is tiny (a few thousandths of a millimeter per cell), deep green from its chlorophyll, and grown in controlled tanks or ponds rather than harvested from the wild. Most cosmetic research on it so far has been done in the lab, which this entry explains below.

Quick Facts

INCI names Chlorella Vulgaris Extract; Chlorella Vulgaris Powder; trade extracts are often supplied as Water (and) Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Common names Chlorella, green algae, green microalgae; Dermochlorella is a trade name of one extract (Codif)
Not the same as Spirulina and blue-green algae (cyanobacteria), kelp and other seaweeds (large brown algae), and chlorophyll (one pigment, not the whole organism)
Source Cultivated freshwater microalga
Form Dark green powder, or a pale liquid extract (often decolorized)
Solubility Liquid extracts are water soluble; powder disperses in water but does not dissolve
Typical usage rate Follow the supplier's data sheet. No public manufacturer range was found. In the supplier's own lab tests, a Codif extract was tested at 0.5% to 1%
Key compounds Proteins and peptides, amino acids, polysaccharides including beta-glucan, chlorophyll, carotenoids such as beta-carotene, B vitamins, minerals
Skin types Normal, dry, combination, and mature skin; patch test for sensitive skin

How Chlorella Works on the Skin

Moisture and a smooth feel

Chlorella polysaccharides are long sugar chains that hold water and thicken a formula. A 2017 review of microalgae in cosmetics (Mourelle and colleagues, journal Cosmetics) lists chlorella polysaccharides as moisturizing and gelling ingredients and notes beta-1,3-glucan as a free radical scavenger. These are the reasons chlorella shows up in hydrating gels and masks.

Antioxidant compounds

Chlorella supplies chlorophyll and carotenoids. Antioxidants help protect the look of skin from the visible effects of daily sun and pollution exposure, which is the main reason chlorella appears in anti-aging and "urban" skincare.

What the research measured

  • In a 2020 lab study (Kim and colleagues, Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology), an oil fraction from Chlorella sp. HS1 was applied to cultured human skin cells. It increased collagen type 1 and type 3 gene expression and lowered MMP1 and MMP3 (enzymes that break down collagen) in dermal fibroblasts. Beta-carotene, the main compound in the oil, produced the same pattern. This was cell culture, not people.
  • Codif, the supplier of Dermochlorella, published lab work in 2007 (Morvan and Vallee, Personal Care Magazine) on a salt-free, peptide-rich Chlorella vulgaris extract tested at 1% (0.5% for the elastin test) on cultured skin cells and reconstructed epidermis for 24 hours. This is supplier data from cell models, not a human study.

The 2017 review itself notes that cosmetic studies on microalgae are still very few. No published placebo-controlled human study of a topical chlorella product was found when this entry was written, so read firming and collagen claims for chlorella as promising lab findings rather than results proven on skin.

How to Use Chlorella in DIY Formulas

  • Liquid extracts go into the water phase or the cool-down phase below 40°C (104°F). Use the rate on your supplier's data sheet; if none is given, do not guess.
  • Powder works best in rinse-off masks, mixed with a clay and a liquid (aloe juice, floral water, or plain water) just before use. Whole powder stains: it can tint skin, towels, and grout green, so rinse well.
  • Color and scent. Whole powder brings a strong green color and a grassy, ocean-like scent. Decolorized extracts are pale and nearly odorless, which is why most finished products use them.
  • Compatibility. Chlorella extracts pair well with hyaluronic acid, glycerin, aloe, and peptide serums. Keep pH in the range your preservative needs.
  • Preserve and store. Protein and sugar rich extracts feed microbes, so use a broad-spectrum preservative in any water-containing formula. Keep powder sealed, dry, and away from light.

For other algae and their textures, see our algae glossary entry and kelp glossary entry.

Who Chlorella Suits

Chlorella extracts suit normal, dry, combination, and mature skin, and green algae masks are popular for skin that looks dull or tired. People with known allergies to algae should avoid it or check with their doctor first. If you have sensitive skin, patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours and start at the lowest rate on your supplier's range, then work up.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does chlorella do for your skin?

Chlorella extracts add moisture-binding sugars, amino acids, and antioxidant pigments, so skin feels softer and looks more hydrated. In lab studies, chlorella compounds raised collagen gene expression in cultured skin cells. Human topical studies are still lacking.

Is chlorella good for your face?

Yes, chlorella extracts are generally well tolerated in face serums, creams, and masks. They are light and water based, so they suit most skin types. Patch test first, as with any botanical.

What is the difference between chlorella and spirulina for skin?

Chlorella is a true green alga, while spirulina is a blue-green cyanobacterium with a blue pigment called phycocyanin. Both supply proteins and antioxidants. Chlorella has a tough cell wall, which is why cosmetic grades are usually extracts rather than whole cells.

Is chlorella the same as chlorophyll?

No. Chlorophyll is one green pigment found in chlorella and in all green plants. Chlorella is the whole organism, which also contains proteins, sugars, carotenoids, and minerals.

Is it better to use chlorella on the skin or take it as a supplement?

They are different uses. Topical extracts act on the skin's surface feel and look, while supplements are a food question for your doctor. This entry covers only topical cosmetic use.

Can chlorella stain your skin?

Whole chlorella powder can leave a temporary green tint on skin and fabrics. It washes off with a gentle cleanser. Decolorized extracts used in most serums do not stain.

Is chlorella safe for sensitive skin?

Chlorella extracts are generally well tolerated, but anyone allergic to algae should avoid them. Patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours and start at the lowest supplier rate.

Shop and Learn More

No product currently carries chlorella on its own. For a microalgae blend, our Liquid Facelift Collagen Serum includes organic blue-green algae and plankton alongside Matrixyl 3000 and Argireline. For another algae ingredient explained in depth, read our red algae extract guide.

Sources

  • Mourelle ML, Gómez CP, Legido JL. The Potential Use of Marine Microalgae and Cyanobacteria in Cosmetics and Thalassotherapy. Cosmetics. 2017;4(4):46. doi:10.3390/cosmetics4040046. MDPI
  • Kim HB, Kim JY, An S, Lee YJ, Cho DH, Kim HS, Bae S. Potential anti-wrinkle activity of Chlorella sp. HS1-derived oil components on human dermal fibroblasts. Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology. 2020;18(1):41-51. doi:10.20402/ajbc.2019.0342. DOI
  • Morvan PY, Vallee R (Codif International). Effects of Chlorella extract on skin. Personal Care Magazine, 2007 (supplier data, in vitro). Personal Care Magazine

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.