Comfrey Root - Allantoin

What Is Allantoin in Skincare?

Allantoin is a gentle, skin-conditioning molecule that occurs naturally in the root and leaves of comfrey (Symphytum officinale) and in many other plants. In skincare it is used to soften rough skin, make dry patches look smoother, and help formulas feel soothing and comfortable, even on sensitive skin.

EWG Skin Deep rating for comfrey root (allantoin)

Almost all cosmetic allantoin today is nature-identical: made to pharmaceutical (USP) specifications rather than extracted from the plant. That gives formulators a pure, consistent ingredient without the plant's other compounds.

Allantoin Quick Facts

How Allantoin Works on the Skin

Allantoin is classed as a skin-conditioning agent. In practice it does three things that show up on the surface:

• Softens and smooths: It helps loosen the dry, flaky cells that build up on rough skin, so skin looks smoother and feels softer.
• Supports moisture: It helps the outer layer hold water, which reduces the tight, dry feel after cleansing.
• Calms the look of skin: It is one of the classic soothing ingredients in formulas for sensitive skin, after-sun care, and shaving products, and it is very low in irritation potential.

Safety is well documented. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel reviewed allantoin and its complexes in 2010 and concluded the data support its safety at the concentrations used in cosmetics, which were reported at up to 2%.

A note on comfrey itself: whole comfrey root contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids, which are a safety concern. The European Medicines Agency assessment of comfrey root restricts herbal comfrey preparations to intact skin and short-term use. This is one reason cosmetic formulators choose purified allantoin rather than crude comfrey extract. Allantoin does not carry the alkaloids.

Older versions of this page made claims about connective tissue, cell regeneration, and free radical scavenging. Those are not supported for a cosmetic and have been removed.

How to Use Allantoin in Formulas

• Rate: Use up to 2%, the top of the supplier range and the highest level reported in cosmetics.
• Below 0.5%: Dissolve it in the water phase. It tolerates heating, so it can go in at the start.
• At 0.5% or more: Allantoin will not fully dissolve. Make the emulsion first, then add it during cool-down below 50°C (122°F) with good mixing so it disperses as a fine suspension. Adding it hot at high levels can cause it to recrystallize into gritty particles as the product cools.
• Thick bases: Creams, lotions, and gels keep suspended allantoin evenly distributed. Thin toners should stay at or below 0.5%.
• Compatibility: Works with peptides, hyaluronic acid, aloe, panthenol, and most preservatives in the pH 3 to 8 range.
• Storage: Keep the powder sealed, cool, and dry.

Who Allantoin Suits

Allantoin suits nearly everyone: dry and mature skin that looks rough, skin that feels tight after cleansing, freshly shaved skin, and skin that looks red after sun or wind. It is also non-greasy, so it works for oily and combination skin.

Sensitive skin: Patch test new products on the inner arm and wait 24 hours. In DIY formulas, start at the lowest rate of the range, 0.1%, and work up toward 2% only if your skin stays comfortable.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is allantoin good or bad for your skin?

Allantoin is good for most skin. It softens rough skin and gives formulas a soothing feel, and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel supports its safety at cosmetic levels up to 2%.

Is allantoin natural or synthetic?

Both forms exist. It occurs naturally in comfrey and other plants, but cosmetic allantoin is usually synthesized to be chemically identical and pure.

Is allantoin safe for sensitive skin?

Yes. It is one of the gentlest conditioning ingredients available and is used widely in formulas for sensitive skin. Patch testing is still a good habit.

Can I use allantoin every day?

Yes. Allantoin is gentle enough for daily use, morning and night, in cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers.

Can I use allantoin with retinol?

Yes. Allantoin is often paired with retinol and alpha hydroxy acids because its softening, soothing feel helps those routines feel more comfortable. It is stable from pH 3 to 8, so it fits most formulas.

Is allantoin better than hyaluronic acid?

They do different jobs. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that attracts water, while allantoin softens and smooths rough skin. Many formulas use both.

Does allantoin clog pores?

No. It is water soluble, not an oil, and it is used in oil-free formulas.

Can I use comfrey tea or homemade comfrey extract on my face?

We do not recommend it. Crude comfrey contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids, and regulators limit herbal comfrey to short-term use on intact skin. Purified allantoin gives the softening benefit without that concern.

Shop and Learn More

The moisturizer featured in this collection is our Ultimate Moisturizer for Day and Night Use, a light, ten-peptide moisturizer for normal, dry, and mature skin. For a full sensitive-skin routine, read A Gentle Guide to Organic Skincare for Sensitive Skin, and see our glossary entries for aloe vera and chamomile.

Sources

• Becker LC, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Final report of the safety assessment of allantoin and its related complexes. International Journal of Toxicology. 2010;29(3 Suppl):84S-97S. doi:10.1177/1091581810362805
• European Medicines Agency, Committee on Herbal Medicinal Products. Assessment report on Symphytum officinale L., radix. EMA/HMPC/572844/2009, 2015. EMA assessment report

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.