Phospholipids and Healthy Skin

What Are Phospholipids in Skincare?

Phospholipids are the fat-based molecules that make up every cell membrane. Each one has a water-loving head and two oil-loving tails, so in water they line up into double layers. In skincare they are used two ways: as skin-softening, conditioning lipids, and as the building blocks of liposomes, tiny spheres that carry water-soluble actives such as peptides into the upper layers of the skin.

The most common cosmetic phospholipid is lecithin, which is mainly phosphatidylcholine and is usually sourced from soy or sunflower.

Phospholipid Quick Facts

How Phospholipids Work on the Skin

It helps to know what the skin's surface barrier is made of. The lipids between the cells of the stratum corneum are mostly ceramides (45 to 50%), cholesterol (about 25%), and free fatty acids (10 to 15%), with other lipids at less than 5% each (Madison, 2003). Phospholipids are abundant in the living layers below, but the finished surface barrier contains very little of them.

So topical phospholipids are not a direct replacement for the barrier. What they do well:

• Delivery: Liposomes are lipid vesicles that can carry both water-soluble and oil-soluble ingredients. Their similarity to cell membranes helps them interact with the skin's surface, although they break down faster than some other delivery systems (Formula Botanica, Delivery System Workbook). Liposomes are not thought to pass through the skin barrier intact; instead they fuse with the outer layers and briefly loosen them, which helps the actives they carry reach the surface layers (Lautenschlager, 2014). That is why Skin Perfection pairs liposomes with peptides such as Matrixyl 3000 and Argireline.
• Conditioning: Lecithin leaves a soft, smooth, non-greasy finish and helps emulsions feel lighter.
• Gentleness: In a study comparing three cosmetic vehicles on volunteers' skin, a liposomal pre-formulation produced no negative effects on skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, or sebum, which stayed almost constant (Mahrhauser et al., 2015). In other words, liposomes are a well-tolerated carrier, and the benefit comes mainly from what they deliver.

An older version of this page called phospholipids humectants and described them as the leading source of skin moisture. That is not accurate: humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid attract water, while phospholipids are structural, conditioning lipids. The page has been corrected.

How to Use Phospholipid Liposomes in Formulas

• Rate: 1% to 10%. For DIY serums, use the top of the range: 10%, which at the house rate of 9 drops = 1% per fluid ounce is 90 drops per 1 oz.
• When to add: Add at cool-down, below 40°C (104°F). Heat, strong surfactants, and high levels of alcohol can break liposomes apart.
• Mixing: Stir gently by hand. High-shear blending can damage the vesicles.
• Pairing: Works best with water-soluble actives: peptides, hyaluronic acid, aloe-based serums.
• Storage: Keep cool and away from light, and use a preserved base; liposome dispersions are water based.

Simple Liposome Peptide Serum (1 oz)

• 90 drops (10%) Phospholipid Liposomes
• 90 drops (10%) Argireline, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
• Aloe Vera Gel Serum Base to fill the 1 oz bottle

Add the base to the bottle first, then the two boosters, cap, and roll gently to combine. Apply to clean skin morning and night.

Who Phospholipids Suit

Phospholipids suit every skin type. Lecithin-based products are especially pleasant on dry and mature skin, and liposome serums are a good fit for anyone using peptide boosters.

Sensitive skin: Patch test on the inner arm and wait 24 hours. Start liposomes at the lowest rate, 1% (9 drops per oz), and work up to 10% only if your skin stays comfortable. People with a soy allergy should check the source of the lecithin.

Frequently Asked Questions

What do phospholipids do for skin?

Topical phospholipids condition and soften the skin, and when formed into liposomes they carry water-soluble actives such as peptides to the skin's surface layers. They are structural lipids, not humectants, so pair them with hyaluronic acid or glycerin for hydration.

Are liposomes good for skin?

Yes. Liposomes are a gentle, well-tolerated carrier. In a vehicle study, a liposomal formulation showed no negative effects on skin hydration, water loss, or sebum, so their value comes mainly from the actives they deliver.

Is lecithin good for skin?

Yes. Lecithin is a conditioning ingredient that leaves a soft, non-greasy finish and helps emulsions feel lighter. Soy phosphatidylcholine is also rich in linoleic acid, a fatty acid the skin uses in its barrier lipids.

Is a liposomal serum better than a regular serum?

It can deliver water-soluble actives more effectively, but the actives and their concentrations matter most. A liposomal serum with low levels of active is not better than a regular serum with the right amount.

Do phospholipids moisturize the skin?

They condition and soften, but they are not humectants. Pair them with hyaluronic acid or glycerin for hydration.

Can I add liposomes to a store-bought serum?

Yes, if it is water based and preserved. Add up to 10%, or about 90 drops per 1 oz, and roll the bottle gently to mix.

Are phospholipids safe for sensitive skin?

Generally yes. Patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours and start liposomes at 1%. People with a soy allergy should check the lecithin source.

Shop and Learn More

Products in this collection include Phospholipid Liposomes, the Ageless Advanced Age-Defying Serum, the EGF Peptide Serum Booster, and the 2.5% Retinol Serum. For the lipids that make up the surface barrier, see our ceramides glossary entry.

Sources

• Madison KC. Barrier function of the skin: "la raison d'etre" of the epidermis. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2003;121(2):231-241.
• Mahrhauser D, Nagelreiter C, Baierl A, Skipiol J, Valenta C. Influence of a multiple emulsion, liposomes and a microemulsion gel on sebum, skin hydration and TEWL. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2015;37(2):181-186. doi:10.1111/ics.12180
• Lautenschlager H. Phospholipids: the all-rounders. medical Beauty Forum. 2014;(3):18-20 (industry publication).
• Formula Botanica. The Delivery System Workbook, 2025: liposomes and formulation considerations (supplier and educator document).
• Skin Perfection, Phospholipid Liposomes product page: usage rate 1-10%.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.