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Pycnogenol Pine Bark
What Is Pycnogenol (Pine Bark Extract) in Skincare?
Pycnogenol is the trademarked name for a standardized extract of French maritime pine bark (Pinus pinaster), rich in antioxidant polyphenols called procyanidins, plus phenolic acids such as taxifolin, catechin, and ferulic acid. In skincare, pine bark extract is used as an antioxidant to help protect the look of skin from environmental stress and to support a smoother, more even, more radiant-looking complexion.
EWG Skin Deep rating for Pycnogenol Pine Bark
One correction to a common myth, including an older version of this page: pine bark does not contain collagen. Collagen is an animal protein. Pine bark's value comes from its polyphenols, which help protect the collagen your skin already has from oxidative damage.
Quick Facts
| INCI name | Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract (Pycnogenol is a brand of this extract) |
|---|---|
| Common names | Pycnogenol, French maritime pine bark extract, maritime pine, cluster pine |
| Source | Bark of maritime pine trees grown in southwest France |
| Form | Fine red-brown powder |
| Solubility | Water soluble |
| Key compounds | Procyanidins (oligomeric proanthocyanidins), taxifolin, catechin, phenolic acids |
| Typical usage rate | Varies by supplier and grade; follow the technical data sheet for the specific extract you buy |
| Skin types | Normal, dry, mature, and sun-exposed skin |
How Pine Bark Extract Works on the Skin
Ultraviolet light and pollution create free radicals that oxidize skin proteins and lipids, including the collagen and elastin that keep skin looking firm. Procyanidins are strong antioxidants that help neutralize those free radicals. Pine bark polyphenols also bind to collagen and elastin fibers in lab studies, which is thought to help protect them from enzymes that break them down.
Even tone, hydration, and environmental stress
The three benefits most often linked to pine bark extract are a more even-looking tone, better-hydrated skin, and protection from the look of environmental stress such as sun and city pollution. The deep red color of the extract comes from its high procyanidin content, and those same polyphenols are what give it its antioxidant strength. Researchers at the Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine, who led the human studies below, have focused on exactly these areas: pigmentation, barrier function, and the skin's supporting matrix.
In a formula, pine bark extract acts as a protective antioxidant layer under sunscreen in the morning, or as a supporting antioxidant in a night serum alongside peptides.
What the research measured
Most human research on Pycnogenol and skin is on the oral supplement, not topical products. Read these results as background on what the extract can do in the body, not as proof of what a cream does.
- In a study by Marini and colleagues (Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2012), 20 women aged 55 to 68 took 75 mg of Pycnogenol daily by mouth for 12 weeks. Skin elasticity and hydration increased, and skin samples showed higher activity of genes for collagen type I and hyaluronic acid synthesis. The study had no placebo group and was funded by the ingredient's manufacturer.
- A 2016 review by Grether-Beck and colleagues in the same journal summarized clinical and molecular evidence that oral Pycnogenol supports photoprotection, a more even skin tone, and skin barrier function.
Topical human studies on pine bark extract are limited. Its topical use rests on its well-documented antioxidant chemistry, which is the same reason formulators use green tea, grape seed, and other polyphenol extracts.
How to Use Pine Bark Extract in DIY Formulas
- Dissolve it in the water phase or in a water-based serum, and add it below 40°C (104°F) to protect the polyphenols.
- Expect color. Pine bark extract tints formulas amber to reddish brown. Color shifts darker over time as polyphenols oxidize.
- Keep pH mildly acidic. Polyphenols are more stable at a slightly acidic pH, around 4.5 to 5.5.
- Pair it with peptides. Antioxidants and collagen-supporting amino acid sequences work well together. For example, the Syn-Coll Peptide Serum Booster (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) can be added to a pine bark serum at 3%, which is 27 drops per fl oz at the house rate of 9 drops = 1% per fl oz. DSM's guidelines call for adding Syn-Coll below 40°C and a final pH of 3.0 to 7.0, which fits a pine bark serum.
- Package and store it well. Use opaque, airless packaging, preserve any water-based formula with a broad-spectrum preservative, and keep the powder sealed in a cool, dark place.
Who Pine Bark Extract Suits
Pine bark extract suits normal, dry, mature, and sun-exposed skin, and anyone building an antioxidant step into a daily routine. If you have sensitive skin, patch test first on the inner arm for 24 hours and start at the lowest rate in your supplier's range, then work up.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does pine bark extract do for skin?
Pine bark extract supplies procyanidins, strong antioxidants that help protect the look of skin from UV and pollution stress. In skincare it supports a smoother, more even, more radiant-looking complexion. The strongest human data are for the oral supplement, so read topical claims with that in mind.
Does pine bark extract contain collagen?
No. Plants do not make collagen, which is an animal protein. Pine bark extract supplies antioxidants that help protect the collagen already in your skin. For more, see our collagen glossary entry.
Is Pycnogenol the same as grape seed extract?
Both are rich in procyanidins, but they come from different plants and have different overall compositions. Pycnogenol is a specific, standardized French maritime pine bark extract. Product labels list it as Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract.
Can I use pine bark extract with vitamin C?
Yes. Antioxidants often work better in combination. Many people use a vitamin C serum in the morning and a peptide and antioxidant serum at night.
Is pine bark extract safe for sensitive skin?
It is generally well tolerated in cosmetics, but any plant extract can cause a reaction in some people. Patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours before regular use. If you take an oral supplement, ask your doctor first, especially if you take other medications.
Is taking Pycnogenol the same as applying it?
No. The best human data, such as the 12-week study of 75 mg a day, are for the oral supplement. Topical use is supported by its antioxidant chemistry and lab research.
Shop This Collection
This collection features the Syn-Coll Peptide Serum Booster, a Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 booster you add to your own serum or moisturizer. Learn more in our Syn-Coll glossary entry, and see how antioxidants fit a routine in How to Improve Skin Texture Naturally.
Sources
- Marini A, Grether-Beck S, Jaenicke T, et al. Pycnogenol effects on skin elasticity and hydration coincide with increased gene expressions of collagen type I and hyaluronic acid synthase in women. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2012;25(2):86-92. doi:10.1159/000335261. Karger
- Grether-Beck S, Marini A, Jaenicke T, Krutmann J. French Maritime Pine Bark Extract (Pycnogenol) Effects on Human Skin: Clinical and Molecular Evidence. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2016;29(1):13-17. doi:10.1159/000441039. Karger
- DSM, Syn-Coll formulation guidelines, 2013 (supplier data: INCI, 1% to 3% use level, below 40°C, pH 3.0 to 7.0).
These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.