Sea Buckthorn Berry

What Is Sea Buckthorn in Skincare?

Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) is a hardy shrub whose bright orange berries are pressed for two very different oils: a deep orange fruit (pulp) oil and a lighter seed oil. In skincare, both are used as nourishing emollients for a soft, supple feel and a healthy-looking glow, and the fruit oil is prized for omega-7 palmitoleic acid and carotenoids.

EWG Skin Deep score for Sea Buckthorn Berry EWG Skin Deep rating for Sea Buckthorn Berry

The berries grow across Europe and Asia, including cold, dry mountain regions. Their oils are rich in fatty acids, vitamin E, and carotenoids, which give the fruit oil its intense color.

Quick Facts

INCI names Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Fruit Oil; Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Seed Oil; Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Common names Sea buckthorn, seaberry, sandthorn
Source Berries (pulp) and seeds of Hippophae rhamnoides
Form Fruit oil: cloudy, deep red-orange. Seed oil: lighter orange-red. Extracts: water or glycerin based
Solubility Oils: oil soluble. Extracts: water soluble
Typical usage rate Fruit oil: 1% to 10%. Seed oil: 1% to 2.5% as an active, up to 100% (supplier data). Below about 10% the oils should not stain skin
Key compounds Fruit oil: palmitoleic acid (30% to 35%), palmitic acid, carotenoids. Seed oil: linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids in roughly equal amounts, tocopherols
Skin types Dry, dull, mature, and combination skin

How Sea Buckthorn Works on the Skin

A rare omega-7 source

Sea buckthorn fruit oil contains 30% to 35% palmitoleic acid (omega-7), the highest level of any plant oil, according to a 2017 review in Lipids in Health and Disease (Zielińska and Nowak). That unusual fatty acid profile gives the oil its soft, cushiony feel.

Moisture and a smoother surface

The seed oil's linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids help the skin's outer layer hold on to water. A 2017 review in the journal Cosmetics (Koskovac and colleagues) reports that these fatty acids are associated with lower water loss through the skin, which suits dry or flaky-looking skin.

Antioxidants and glow

Carotenoids such as beta-carotene and the oil's tocopherols (vitamin E) are antioxidants that help protect the skin's lipids from free radicals. The carotenoids also give a warm, healthy-looking tint at low levels.

What the research measured

  • In a 2010 study in the Journal of Pharmacy and Bioallied Sciences (Akhtar and colleagues), 10 healthy adults applied a water-in-oil cream with 1% concentrated sea buckthorn fruit extract to the cheeks for 8 weeks. Sebum secretion decreased significantly compared with the plain base cream.
  • The 2017 Cosmetics review describes a single-application study in which creams containing 40% sea buckthorn oil significantly increased measured skin hydration compared with a synthetic emollient. The number of participants was not reported.

Human studies on topical sea buckthorn are small, so read them as early evidence. Many claims online, such as sun protection, come from animal or lab work and are not supported for use on people.

How to Use Sea Buckthorn in DIY Formulas

  • Use it as a booster oil. Fruit oil is concentrated and colorful. Blend it into a lighter carrier oil rather than using it neat.
  • Mind the color. Used full strength, the fruit oil can stain skin, towels, and pillowcases orange. Below about 10%, it should not stain.
  • Creams and lotions. Add it to the oil phase. Because it is rich in unsaturated fatty acids, adding it in the cool-down phase below 40°C (104°F) helps protect it.
  • Protect it from oxidation. Add 0.5% vitamin E, store the oil tightly capped, cool, and dark, and expect the fruit oil to thicken in the refrigerator.

Glow face oil (1 fl oz, about 30 ml)

  • 3 ml sea buckthorn fruit oil (10%, the top of the supplier range)
  • 26.85 ml jojoba or rice bran oil
  • 0.15 ml vitamin E (0.5%)

Combine in a dark glass dropper bottle and shake. Apply 2 to 4 drops to damp skin at night. Use within 6 months.

Who Sea Buckthorn Suits

Sea buckthorn suits dry, dull, and mature skin, and its light seed oil also works for combination skin. People with very fair skin may notice a faint golden tint from the fruit oil at higher amounts. If you have sensitive skin, patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours first and start at the lowest rate (1%, or about 9 drops per fl oz), then work up.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does sea buckthorn oil do for your skin?

Sea buckthorn oil softens and smooths skin, helps it hold moisture, and adds antioxidant carotenoids and vitamin E for a healthy-looking glow. The fruit oil is one of the richest plant sources of omega-7 palmitoleic acid. Skin looks more supple and radiant with regular use.

Does sea buckthorn oil stain your skin?

Used full strength, the fruit oil can leave an orange tint on skin and fabrics because of its carotenoids. Below about 10% in a blend or cream, it should not stain. The seed oil is lighter in color.

What is the difference between sea buckthorn fruit oil and seed oil?

Fruit oil, pressed from the pulp, is deep orange and rich in palmitoleic acid and carotenoids. Seed oil is lighter and rich in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids. Fruit oil is used at 1% to 10%, while seed oil can be used up to 100%.

Is sea buckthorn oil good for oily skin?

It can be used on oily and combination skin in small amounts. In one small 8-week study, a cream with 1% sea buckthorn fruit extract reduced measured sebum secretion. Choose the lighter seed oil or a low percentage of fruit oil.

Can I use sea buckthorn oil on my face every day?

Yes, when it is diluted in a carrier oil or cream. A few drops of a 10% blend at night is a common routine. Patch test first.

Can sea buckthorn oil give skin a natural glow?

Yes. Its carotenoids add a warm, golden tint at low levels, and its fatty acids leave skin looking dewy. It is not a self-tanner, and it does not provide sun protection.

Shop and Learn More

Skin Perfection does not currently sell a sea buckthorn product. For a step-by-step guide, read Sea Buckthorn Face Oil: How to Use It Safely at Home. Learn more about its key nutrients in our glossary entries on vitamin A and beta-carotene and vitamin E, and about the carrier oils used in the recipe in our jojoba oil and rice bran oil entries.

Sources

  • Zielińska A, Nowak I. Abundance of active ingredients in sea-buckthorn oil. Lipids Health Dis. 2017;16:95. doi:10.1186/s12944-017-0469-7. DOI
  • Koskovac M, Cupara S, Kipic M, Barjaktarevic A, Milovanovic O, Kojicic K, Markovic M. Sea Buckthorn Oil: A Valuable Source for Cosmeceuticals. Cosmetics. 2017;4(4):40. doi:10.3390/cosmetics4040040. DOI
  • Akhtar N, et al. Journal of Pharmacy and Bioallied Sciences. 2010;2(1):13-17 (1% Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract water-in-oil cream, 10 volunteers, 8 weeks, sebum). DOAJ record

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.