Spearmint Leaf

What Is Spearmint in Skincare?

Spearmint (Mentha spicata) is a mint plant whose leaves and steam-distilled essential oil are used in skincare for a fresh, sweet-minty scent and a light, refreshing feel. You will find it in lip balms, cleansers, foot and body care, and products for oily skin that want a clean, invigorating finish.

EWG Skin Deep score for Spearmint Leaf EWG Skin Deep rating for Spearmint Leaf

Spearmint is gentler than peppermint. Its main aroma compound is carvone, while peppermint's is menthol, the compound behind peppermint's strong icy tingle. That makes spearmint a softer choice for products used on the face and lips.

Quick Facts

INCI names Mentha Spicata (Spearmint) Oil; Mentha Spicata Leaf Extract; also listed as Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Oil
Common names Spearmint, garden mint, green mint
Source Leaves and flowering tops of Mentha spicata, mint family
Form Pale essential oil (steam distilled); dried leaf; water or glycerin leaf extracts
Solubility Essential oil: oil soluble (needs a solubilizer in water). Leaf extracts: water or glycerin soluble
Typical usage rate Essential oil: dermal maximum 1.7% (Tisserand and Young); IFRA leave-on limit 1.2%, about 11 drops per fl oz at the house rate of 9 drops = 1% per fl oz
Main constituent Carvone (up to about 70% of the oil)
Skin types Normal, combination, and oily skin; lips and body; use with care on sensitive skin

How Spearmint Works on the Skin

Scent and a refreshing feel

Spearmint's main role in skincare is sensory. Its carvone-rich oil gives a clean, sweet-mint scent and a mild cooling sensation without the strong chill of menthol. In cleansers and toners, that leaves skin feeling fresh and awake, which is why it is popular in products for oily and combination skin.

Plant compounds

Like other mint-family plants, spearmint leaves contain polyphenols, plant compounds with antioxidant activity. Leaf extracts bring more of these than the essential oil, which is mostly aroma compounds.

What the research measured

No published human studies on topical spearmint for the appearance of skin were found. Most spearmint research is on the tea taken by mouth, which is a health topic rather than a cosmetic one; if you are curious about spearmint tea, talk with your doctor. The safety side is better documented: Tisserand and Young set a dermal maximum of 1.7% for the essential oil, and the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) limits it to 1.2% in leave-on products. IFRA also restricts some of its components, including carvone, because they can cause skin sensitization in some people.

How to Use Spearmint in DIY Formulas

  • Dilute, always. Never apply spearmint essential oil neat. In leave-on products, stay at or below 1.2% (about 11 drops per fl oz).
  • Lip balms. Melt the beeswax and oils, let the mixture cool slightly, then stir in the spearmint oil just before pouring. Adding it too hot drives off the scent.
  • Lotions and cleansers. Add the oil in the cool-down phase below 40°C (104°F). In water-based products without an emulsifier, premix it with a solubilizer.
  • Leaf extracts. Water or glycerin spearmint extracts go into the water phase and give a milder effect than the essential oil.
  • Storage. Keep the essential oil tightly capped in a dark bottle away from heat. Oxidized oils are more likely to irritate.
  • Keep it away from the eyes. Mint oils sting mucous membranes.

Who Spearmint Suits

Spearmint suits normal, combination, and oily skin, lips, and body care, and it is a gentler mint option than peppermint. People who react to fragrance or essential oils should be cautious. If you have sensitive skin, patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours first and start at the lowest rate, for example 0.25% (about 2 drops per fl oz), then work up toward the 1.2% leave-on limit.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does spearmint do for your skin?

Spearmint gives skincare a fresh, minty scent and a light cooling feel that leaves skin feeling clean and refreshed. Its leaves also contain antioxidant plant compounds. Its main role is sensory rather than as a concentrated active.

What is the difference between spearmint and peppermint in skincare?

Spearmint's main compound is carvone, while peppermint is rich in menthol. Peppermint feels much colder and tingles more, and spearmint smells sweeter and feels gentler. For faces and lips, spearmint is the softer choice.

Is spearmint oil safe to put on skin?

Yes, when it is diluted. The IFRA limit for leave-on products is 1.2%, and the dermal maximum from Tisserand and Young is 1.7%. Never use it undiluted, and patch test first.

How much spearmint oil should I add to a lip balm?

Stay at or below the 1.2% leave-on limit, which is about 11 drops per fl oz of balm. Many people prefer less on lips, so start low and add more only if your lips tolerate it.

Is spearmint good for oily skin?

Spearmint is popular in cleansers and toners for oily skin because it leaves a clean, fresh feel. It does not replace actives such as niacinamide for the look of shine. Use it diluted; rinse-off products are the gentlest way to start.

Can people with sensitive skin use spearmint?

Some can, but essential oils are a common cause of reactions. Patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours and start at a very low rate. Skip it if you are sensitive to fragrance.

Shop and Learn More

The Organic Fresh Mint Lip Balm pairs organic spearmint oil with organic beeswax, sunflower oil, and coconut oil for soft, fresh-feeling lips. For a stronger mint, see our peppermint glossary entry, read about the balm's base in our beeswax glossary entry, and browse Top Natural Lip Care Products.

Sources

  • Eden Botanicals, Spearmint Organic essential oil safety information (supplier data: INCI, CAS 8008-79-5, dermal maximum 1.7% citing Tisserand and Young, Essential Oil Safety, 2nd ed., 2014; IFRA leave-on 1.2%). Supplier page
  • The Good Scents Company, Spearmint oil data sheet (IFRA-restricted components: carvone up to about 70%, sensitization notes). Ingredient database

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.