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Acai Fruit
What Is Acai in Skincare?
Acai (Euterpe oleracea) is the small, dark-purple fruit of a palm that grows in the Amazon region of Brazil. In skincare it is used as an antioxidant extract, rich in polyphenols and anthocyanin pigments, and as a cold-pressed fruit oil rich in oleic acid that softens dry skin. Lab research supports its antioxidant role; human data so far covers mainly how well it is tolerated.
EWG Skin Deep rating for Acai
Acai Quick Facts
| Property | Details |
|---|---|
| INCI names | Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract; Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil; Euterpe Oleracea Seed Extract |
| Common names | Acai, acai berry, assai palm, palm berry, Amazon berry |
| Source | Fruit of the acai palm, native to the Amazon rainforest of South America |
| Key compounds | Anthocyanins (mainly cyanidin 3-glucoside and cyanidin 3-rutinoside) and other polyphenols; in the oil, mainly oleic and palmitic acids |
| Form | Extract: dry powder or liquid. Oil: liquid fruit oil |
| Solubility | Extract: water soluble or dispersible. Oil: oil soluble |
| Typical usage rate | No supplier range was found for this entry. In published testing, a dry acai extract was used at 0.5%, 1% and 2% in a cream, with antioxidant effects in skin cells at 1-2% |
| Skin types | Extract: all skin types. Oil: dry, normal and mature skin; use sparingly on oily skin |
How Acai Works on the Skin
Daily sun and pollution create free radicals, unstable molecules that wear down collagen and lipids and contribute to a dull, lined look. Antioxidants donate electrons to calm those molecules before they cause damage. Acai is valued in skincare because its pulp is rich in these antioxidant compounds.
The best analysis of what is in acai comes from Schauss and colleagues (2006) in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. In freeze-dried acai they identified cyanidin 3-glucoside and cyanidin 3-rutinoside as the main anthocyanins, along with other polyphenols, and found oleic and palmitic acids to be the main fatty acids. Oleic acid is a softening fatty acid also found in olive and avocado oils, which explains why acai oil feels rich and helps dry skin feel more comfortable.
The most useful skincare study is a 2018 paper by Censi and colleagues in Cosmetics. They made an oil-in-water cream with 0.5%, 1% or 2% dry acai extract and tested it in several ways:
- Skin cells (lab): on human fibroblasts exposed to UV, the 1% and 2% creams showed antioxidant effects, and cell viability rose after 24 hours.
- Tolerance (people): in a 48-hour patch test on 20 volunteers, the irritation index was 0 for everyone.
- Feel (people): a panel of 20 women rated the 2% cream pleasant, with low oiliness and very low stickiness.
- Stability: the creams stayed stable for up to a year with no separation, color or odor change, and passed a preservative challenge test.
The antioxidant effects in that study were measured in cells, not in people, and no human anti-aging trial of acai was found for this entry. Acai is best thought of as a supporting antioxidant and a gentle, well-tolerated botanical rather than a stand-alone anti-aging active.
How to Use Acai in Formulas
- Extract rate: use 2%, the top level tested by Censi and colleagues, unless your supplier's sheet gives a different maximum for its grade.
- When to add: add extracts in the cool-down phase below 40°C (104°F). Acai's polyphenols are heat sensitive: in a 2008 study by Pacheco-Palencia and colleagues, acai oil lost 16% of its phenolic acids at 20-30°C and 33% at 40°C over 10 weeks.
- Oil: add to the oil phase of creams or use in facial oil blends. Store it cool, dark and tightly capped, and add vitamin E to slow oxidation.
- Color: acai pigments can tint a formula and can stain light fabrics. Test a small batch first.
- Pairing: combine with other fruit antioxidants such as pomegranate and blueberry, and with peptides in daytime serums worn under sunscreen.
- Fresh fruit: skip DIY masks made from fresh pulp or frozen smoothie packs. They spoil quickly and stain.
For how antioxidants fit into a daily routine, see antioxidants in face creams.
Who Acai Suits
Acai extract suits most skin types, including oily and combination skin, and anyone who wants extra antioxidant support, especially with daily sun exposure. Acai oil suits dry, normal and mature skin. Because it is rich in oleic acid, people with oily or breakout-prone skin may prefer the extract over the oil.
Sensitive skin: acai was non-irritating in a 20-person patch test, but every formula is different. Patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours, and if you are blending your own, start at the lowest tested rate, 0.5%, and work up to 2%.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does acai do for your skin?
Acai supplies antioxidants that help defend skin against the visible effects of sun and pollution, and acai oil softens dry skin with oleic acid. In a lab study, creams with 1-2% acai extract showed antioxidant effects in UV-exposed skin cells.
Is acai good for aging skin?
It is a useful supporting antioxidant for mature skin. No human anti-aging trial was found, so pair it with proven ingredients such as peptides, retinol and daily sunscreen.
Acai oil vs acai extract: what is the difference?
Acai oil is an oil-soluble emollient rich in oleic and palmitic acids, best for dry skin. Acai extract is the antioxidant-rich, water-friendly part of the fruit and suits all skin types.
Can acai oil clog pores?
It can for some people. Acai oil is rich in oleic acid, which is heavy for oily or breakout-prone skin, so those skin types usually do better with the extract in a light lotion.
How do you use acai in skincare?
Look for it in serums and moisturizers, or add a dry extract to a cream at up to 2% in the cool-down phase. Use acai oil as a few drops in a facial oil blend or the oil phase of a cream.
How should you store acai oil?
Keep it in a cool, dark place with the cap tight. Its phenolic compounds break down faster at warm temperatures, losing about a third at 40°C over 10 weeks in one study.
Is acai safe for sensitive skin?
In a 48-hour patch test on 20 volunteers, acai extract creams caused no irritation. Patch test any new product for 24 hours and start at a low rate if your skin is sensitive.
Shop This Collection at Skin Perfection
This collection lists the Neck Lift and Firm Serum with 20% Pepha Tight; check its product page for the full ingredient list. Explore more fruit antioxidants in the pomegranate and blueberry glossary entries.
Sources
- Censi R, Vargas Peregrina D, Lacava G, Agas D, Lupidi G, Sabbieti MG, Di Martino P. Cosmetic formulation based on an acai extract. Cosmetics. 2018;5(3):48. doi:10.3390/cosmetics5030048
- Schauss AG, Wu X, Prior RL, Ou B, Patel D, Huang D, Kababick JP. Phytochemical and nutrient composition of the freeze-dried Amazonian palm berry, Euterpe oleraceae Mart. (acai). J Agric Food Chem. 2006;54:8598-8603.
- Pacheco-Palencia LA, et al. Study of the phenolic constituents and thermal and storage stability of acai oil. J Agric Food Chem. 2008;56:4631-4636. As summarized in: Baumann L. Juicy benefits of the acai berry. Dermatology News, 2010. MDedge
These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.