Astralagus

What Is Astragalus in Skincare?

Astragalus (often misspelled astralagus) is the root of Astragalus membranaceus, a flowering plant in the pea family that has been used in traditional Chinese herbal practice for centuries, where it is called huang qi, or "yellow leader." In skincare, astragalus root extract is used as an antioxidant botanical in anti-aging serums and creams, mainly for its saponins (astragalosides), flavonoids, and polysaccharides.

EWG Skin Deep rating for astragalus

Quick Facts

How Astragalus Works on the Skin

Antioxidant support against UV stress

The best-studied compound in astragalus is astragaloside IV. In a 2015 lab study, Chen and colleagues bathed human skin fibroblasts (the cells that make collagen) in astragaloside IV for 24 hours, then exposed them to UVA light. UVA normally lowers type I collagen activity and raises MMP-1, an enzyme that breaks collagen down. In those cells, astragaloside IV reversed the drop in collagen gene activity and markedly reduced the rise in MMP-1. This was cell culture work only, not a study on people.

Telomeres and the look of aging skin

Telomeres are protective caps on the ends of chromosomes that shorten as cells age. In a 2022 open-label study, Alt and colleagues tested a face cream containing astragaloside IV and hyaluronic acid. In lab-grown human fibroblasts, cells exposed to astragaloside IV showed longer telomeres than control cells after 4 weeks. In 15 adults who applied the cream to the arm once daily for 4 weeks, skin samples showed a longer median telomere length (5,342 versus 4,616 base pairs). In 20 women aged 40 to 70 who used it on the face for about a month, instrument readings showed a 16% rise in hydration and an 8% decrease in wrinkle depth. The study had no control group for the facial results and was small, so it is promising early evidence, not proof.

What a 2026 review concluded

A systematic review by Jackson, Waibel, and Park in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology gathered PubMed studies from 2015 to 2025 on astragalus for aging and pigmented skin. The authors described astragaloside IV, cycloastragenol, flavonoids, and polysaccharides as reducing oxidative stress and supporting collagen in experimental work, and noted clinical reports of better hydration, tone, and the look of wrinkles. They concluded astragalus is a promising botanical but that more randomized trials are needed. Supplier data for one liposomal extract also reports firmer, smoother skin and a less oily look, without published participant numbers.

Mixed lab results

Not all research is positive. A 2016 lab study of several astragalus root extract fractions on human fibroblasts found that some fractions reduced UVA-related DNA damage, while others increased damage in cells that were not exposed to light. The researchers concluded that extraction method matters. For formulators, that is a reason to buy cosmetic-grade extracts from suppliers who provide safety data, rather than making homemade root infusions.

Claims we removed

The earlier version of this page described astragalus as boosting circulation, the immune system, and cell lifespan, and erasing age spots. We could not verify these for topical use and have removed them.

How to Use It and Formulating Notes

• Routine: use astragalus as part of an antioxidant or firming serum, morning or night, under moisturizer. In the morning, follow with sunscreen, since its studied role is support against UV stress, not sun protection.
• Pair it with: peptides, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, and other botanical antioxidants such as green tea and ginseng.
• DIY formulating: add water-soluble extracts to the water phase or at cool down, below about 40 C (104 F), to protect heat-sensitive compounds. For a liposomal grade such as AstraForce, use 2%, the top of the supplier's 0.5% to 2% range; for other grades, use the top of the rate on your supplier's specification sheet.
• Storage: keep extracts tightly closed, cool, and away from light. Use a broad-spectrum preservative in any water-based formula.

Who It Suits

Astragalus suits normal, dry, and mature skin, and anyone building an antioxidant routine. Sensitive skin: patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours first and start at the lowest rate in your supplier's range. If you are allergic to plants in the pea (legume) family, check with your physician before use.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it spelled astragalus or astralagus?

The correct botanical spelling is astragalus, from Astragalus membranaceus. Astralagus is a common misspelling, and both point to the same root extract.

What does astragalus do for the face?

It is used as an antioxidant botanical in anti-aging serums and creams. Lab studies link its main compound, astragaloside IV, to support for collagen-making cells under UV stress, and one small study measured improved hydration and wrinkle depth with an astragaloside IV cream.

Does astragalus lengthen telomeres in skin?

One small, open-label 2022 study measured longer telomeres in arm skin after 4 weeks of an astragaloside IV cream. There was no control group for the facial results, so larger controlled studies are needed.

Is astragalus good for oily skin?

Supplier data for one liposomal astragalus extract reports a less oily look, but the published details do not include participant numbers. It is a reasonable supporting ingredient for combination skin, not a proven oil-control active.

How much astragalus extract should I use?

One liposomal supplier grade recommends 0.5% to 2%. Other extracts vary in strength, so always use your supplier's specification sheet.

Can I use astragalus with retinol or peptides?

Yes. It has no known conflicts with retinoids, peptides, or vitamin C in a routine, and it pairs well with other antioxidants such as green tea and ginseng.

Who should avoid astragalus?

Anyone allergic to plants in the pea (legume) family should check with a physician first. Everyone else should patch test, especially if skin is sensitive.

Shop Astragalus

For a multi-active firming serum, see our Liquid Facelift Collagen Serum. For more on plant actives, read Pure Botanical Extracts for Deep Wrinkles, and explore our ginseng and antioxidants guides.

Sources

• Chen B, Li R, Yan N, Chen G, Qian W, Jiang HL, Ji C, Bi ZG. Astragaloside IV controls collagen reduction in photoaging skin by improving transforming growth factor-beta/Smad signaling suppression and inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase-1. Mol Med Rep. 2015;11(5):3344-3348. spandidos-publications.com
• Alt C, Tsapekos M, Perez D, Klode J, Stoffels I. An open-label clinical trial analyzing the efficacy of a novel telomere-protecting antiaging face cream. Cosmetics. 2022;9(5):95. mdpi.com
• Jackson S, Waibel JS, Park L. Astragalus membranaceus extract as a botanical ingredient for pigmentary and anti-aging skincare: a systematic review. J Drugs Dermatol. 2026;25(1):88. jddonline.com
• Mibelle Biochemistry, AstraForce product page (supplier data: INCI, 0.5% to 2% use level). mibellebiochemistry.com
• An evaluation of root phytochemicals derived from Althea officinalis (marshmallow) and Astragalus membranaceus as potential natural components of UV protecting dermatological formulations. 2016. doi:10.1155/2016/7053897

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.