Borage Oil

What Is Borage Oil in Skincare?

Borage oil is a light, pale yellow plant oil cold pressed from the seeds of the starflower, Borago officinalis. In skincare it is valued as one of the richest plant sources of gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), an omega-6 fatty acid, and it is used as an emollient that softens dry, rough-looking skin and helps the skin hold on to moisture.

EWG Skin Deep rating for borage oil

Because it is high in polyunsaturated fatty acids, borage oil is usually blended at a modest percentage into creams, serums, and facial oils rather than used as the main oil in a formula.

Borage Oil Quick Facts

How Borage Oil Works on the Skin

The outer layer of skin, the stratum corneum, relies on a mix of lipids to stay soft and to slow the loss of water to the air. Linoleic acid is one of the fatty acids the skin uses in that lipid mix. Applied topically, borage oil works first as an emollient: it fills in the spaces between dry surface cells, so skin looks smoother and feels less tight, and it forms a light film that helps reduce moisture loss.

Most of the human research on borage oil looks at the oil taken as a supplement, not applied to the face, so read these results as support for the role of GLA-rich oils in skin condition rather than as proof of what a cream will do:

• In a study of 29 healthy older adults (mean age 68.6) who took borage oil capsules supplying 360 or 720 mg of GLA daily for 2 months, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a measure of how much water escapes through the skin, fell by an average of 10.8%. The share of participants reporting dry skin dropped from 42% to 14%. Skin hydration readings did not change significantly (Brosche and Platt, 2000).
• In a 12-week placebo-controlled study, women took 2.2 g per day of fatty acids from borage oil, flaxseed oil, or a medium-chain fatty acid placebo. In both oil groups, measured skin hydration increased, TEWL fell by about 10% at 6 weeks, and skin roughness and scaling decreased. Wrinkling did not change (De Spirt et al., 2009).

The practical takeaway for a topical product: borage oil is a softening, moisture-supporting emollient that suits formulas built for dry, rough, or tight-feeling skin. It is not a peptide or an active that changes wrinkle depth on its own.

How to Use Borage Oil in Formulas

• Phase: Add to the oil phase. Because GLA oxidizes easily, add borage oil during cool-down (below about 40°C / 104°F) when you can, rather than holding it at emulsifying temperatures.
• Rate: Up to 10% in creams and lotions and up to 50% in balms, per supplier guidance. In a facial oil blend, combine it with a more stable carrier such as jojoba so the blend lasts longer.
• Antioxidant: Add vitamin E (tocopherol) at 0.5 to 1% of the oil phase to slow rancidity.
• Storage: Keep tightly capped in a cool, dark place, or refrigerated after opening. A sharp, paint-like or fishy smell means the oil has oxidized and should be replaced.
• Preservation: An anhydrous facial oil needs no preservative, but any cream or lotion containing water needs a broad-spectrum preservative.

Who Borage Oil Suits

Borage oil is a good fit for dry and mature skin, skin that feels tight after cleansing, and rough patches on elbows, knees, and hands. It absorbs reasonably well, so people with combination skin can use it at lower percentages in a lotion.

Sensitive skin: Patch test first on the inner arm and wait 24 hours. Start at the low end of the range, around 2% in a lotion, and work up only if your skin is comfortable. Stop using it if you notice redness or stinging.

Quality note: The borage plant naturally contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids. Supplement makers sell PA-free oil for that reason. For skincare, buy a refined, cosmetic-grade borage seed oil from a supplier who provides a certificate of analysis.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is borage oil good for your face?

Yes, especially for dry, mature, or rough-feeling facial skin. It is light enough to blend into serums and facial oils, and its GLA-rich profile makes it a popular choice for skin that feels tight. Patch test first if your skin is sensitive.

Is borage seed oil hydrating?

It is moisturizing rather than hydrating. Oils soften the skin and slow water loss, while humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid attract water. For the best result, apply borage oil over a hydrating serum.

Is borage oil a dry oil?

It feels light and absorbs reasonably well, so many people describe it as fairly dry for a plant oil. It is not as fast-absorbing as a true dry oil such as fractionated coconut oil, so use a few drops at a time.

Does borage oil clog pores?

Borage oil is a light, linoleic-rich oil, and many people with combination skin tolerate it. Pore response is individual, so introduce it slowly if you are prone to congestion.

Is borage oil the same as evening primrose oil?

No. Both supply GLA, but borage seed oil contains roughly twice as much. In the same 1988 seed study, borage oil averaged 22.9% GLA and evening primrose (Oenothera) oil averaged 10.5%. See our evening primrose oil glossary entry for a comparison.

Does borage seed oil smell?

Fresh borage oil has a mild, slightly nutty scent. A sharp, paint-like or fishy smell means it has oxidized and should be replaced.

How long does borage oil last?

Unopened, suppliers list a shelf life of up to about 3 years from manufacture when stored properly. Once opened, refrigeration and an added antioxidant such as vitamin E help it stay fresh.

Shop and Learn More

The product once featured in this collection has been discontinued. To use borage oil at home, blend it into our Regenerating Facial Cream Lotion Bulk Base at up to 10%. For a full guide to choosing oils, read Best Facial Oils for Mature Skin and Hydrate with Facial Oils.

Sources

• Muuse BG, Essers ML, van Soest LJM. Oenothera species and Borago officinalis: sources of gamma-linolenic acid. Netherlands Journal of Agricultural Science. 1988;36:357-363. doi:10.18174/njas.v36i4.16661
• Brosche T, Platt D. Effect of borage oil consumption on fatty acid metabolism, transepidermal water loss and skin parameters in elderly people. Archives of Gerontology and Geriatrics. 2000;30(2):139-150. PubMed 15374040
• De Spirt S, Stahl W, Tronnier H, Sies H, Bejot M, Maurette JM, Heinrich U. Intervention with flaxseed and borage oil supplements modulates skin condition in women. British Journal of Nutrition. 2009;101(3):440-445.
• Bramble Berry, Borage Oil (Borago Officinalis Oil) product specifications: usage rates and shelf life (supplier data).

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.