Evening Primrose Oil

What Is Evening Primrose Oil in Skincare?

Evening primrose oil is a light, golden plant oil pressed from the tiny seeds of Oenothera biennis, a wildflower whose yellow blooms open in the evening. It is one of the richest plant sources of omega-6 fatty acids, especially linoleic acid and gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). In skincare it is used to help dry, tight, or mature skin feel softer and look smoother and more comfortable, and it absorbs quickly without a heavy feel.

EWG Skin Deep rating for Evening Primrose Oil

Evening Primrose Oil Quick Facts

How Evening Primrose Oil Works on the Skin

Linoleic acid and the skin barrier

The outer layer of skin is held together by lipids, including ceramides that are built using linoleic acid. When the skin is short on these lipids, it loses water faster and feels dry and tight. Because evening primrose oil is about 70 to 74% linoleic acid, it is a natural fit for products that help skin look and feel more supple and better moisturized.

Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA)

GLA is a less common omega-6 fatty acid that the body makes from linoleic acid. Evening primrose oil, along with borage oil, is one of the few plant oils that supply it directly. A 2018 review in Antioxidants by Timoszuk, Bielawska, and Skrzydlewska describes the oil's composition, including its GLA content and its phenolic antioxidants, and summarizes research on both oral and topical use. Much of the skin research on evening primrose oil tested capsules taken by mouth, so results from those studies should not be read as proof of what a cream does.

A comfortable, fast-absorbing feel

Oils high in linoleic acid tend to feel lighter and less greasy than oils high in oleic acid, such as olive oil. That makes evening primrose oil a good choice for facial oils, eye creams, and serums for people who dislike heavy textures.

How to Use Evening Primrose Oil in Formulas

• Usage rate: use it as part of the oil phase of a cream or lotion, or as the main oil in a facial oil blend.
• Heat: evening primrose oil is rich in delicate polyunsaturated fats. Add it to emulsions in the cool-down phase, below 40°C (104°F), rather than heating it with the waxes.
• Antioxidant protection: add vitamin E (mixed tocopherols) at about 0.5% of the formula to slow rancidity.
• Pairings: blends well with jojoba, squalane, rosehip, and borage oils, and with oil-soluble antioxidants.
• Storage: buy small amounts, keep it in a dark, airtight bottle, and refrigerate after opening. Discard if it smells sharp or like old crayons.

Who Evening Primrose Oil Suits

Evening primrose oil suits dry, mature, and combination skin, and skin that feels tight after cleansing. Its light texture also works for people who find richer oils too heavy.

Sensitive skin: evening primrose oil is generally gentle, but any plant oil can bother some people. Patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours and start with a small amount in your routine, then increase. Oxidized oil is more likely to irritate, so use it fresh.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does evening primrose oil do for your face?

It supplies linoleic acid and GLA, fatty acids that help skin look softer, smoother, and better moisturized. It absorbs quickly without a greasy finish.

Can I put evening primrose oil directly on my face?

Yes. A few drops can be pressed into damp skin after cleansing, or blended into your moisturizer. Use fresh oil and store it cold.

Does evening primrose oil clog pores?

Oils high in linoleic acid, like evening primrose oil, are generally considered light and less likely to feel heavy than oleic-rich oils. Pore response varies by person, so try it on a small area first.

Is evening primrose oil good for mature skin?

Yes. Mature skin often feels drier and tighter, and the oil's linoleic acid supports the look of soft, supple skin. It works well in facial oils, eye creams, and night creams.

Is evening primrose oil the same as borage oil?

Both supply GLA. Borage oil has a higher GLA content, while evening primrose oil is higher in linoleic acid and has a lighter feel.

Does taking evening primrose oil capsules help skin?

Supplements and skincare are different. Talk with your doctor before starting any supplement; this page covers using the oil on the skin.

Shop Evening Primrose Oil Skincare

Find evening primrose oil in the Uplift Eye Cream and the Rejuvenate Anti-Aging Serum Base, or browse the products in this collection below. For more on choosing oils, read our guide to the best facial oils for mature skin.

Sources

• Timoszuk M, Bielawska K, Skrzydlewska E. Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) biological activity dependent on chemical composition. Antioxidants. 2018;7(8):108. doi:10.3390/antiox7080108 (review)

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.