ChroNOline™

What Is ChroNOline in Skincare?

ChroNOline is the trade name for caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, a lab-made amino acid sequence modeled on a growth factor and used in serums and creams for the look of smoother, firmer skin with fewer visible lines. It is now supplied by Clariant (through Lucas Meyer Cosmetics), which describes it as a biomimetic lipopeptide.

EWG Skin Deep rating for ChroNOline

ChroNOline works on the dermal-epidermal junction, the wavy border that anchors the outer skin to the dermis beneath it. That border flattens with age, which is one reason mature skin looks thinner and more lined.

Quick Facts

How ChroNOline Works on the Skin

Supporting the dermal-epidermal junction

The dermal-epidermal junction is held together by structural proteins, including collagen VII, laminin-5, and fibronectin. According to Clariant, ChroNOline supports the production of these proteins. A well-anchored junction helps skin look firmer and smoother and helps it bounce back.

The fatty acid tail

The caprooyl group is a short fatty acid attached to the amino acid chain. Adding a lipid tail is a common way to help peptides interact with the skin's oily outer layer.

What the research measured

A 2008 report in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (Bilodeau) summarized the supplier's studies of a serum containing 2.5% caprooyl tetrapeptide-3:

• In a skin replica study, fine lines and wrinkles were reduced by an average of 16% (up to 29%) compared with placebo after 28 days. In volunteers aged 50 to 65, the average reduction reached 27% (up to 35%) after two months. The number of volunteers was not stated in the summary.
• In an ultrasound study, 27 women aged 40 to 65 applied the peptide serum to one temple and a placebo to the other twice daily for 168 days. Ultrasound readings of the upper dermis improved compared with placebo in 78% of the volunteers.

These were supplier-run studies presented at a scientific seminar, not independent trials, so read them as supplier data.

How to Use ChroNOline in Formulas

• Follow the supplier's data sheet for the recommended rate. The level tested in the published studies was 2.5%.
• Add it cool. Stir it into the water phase or the cool-down phase below 40°C (104°F). Peptides do not like high heat.
• pH. Keep the finished product in a skin-friendly range, roughly pH 5 to 7, unless the data sheet says otherwise.
• Preserve. ChroNOline is supplied preservative-free, so the finished water-based formula needs a broad-spectrum preservative.
• Pairings. It works through a different route than expression-line peptides such as Argireline or Snap-8 and collagen-supporting peptides such as Matrixyl 3000 and Syn-Coll, so it fits well in a multi-peptide serum with hyaluronic acid.

Who ChroNOline Suits

ChroNOline suits mature skin that looks thinner, less firm, or more lined, and it also appears in body products for the look of smoother stretch marks. Peptides are generally well tolerated. If you have sensitive skin, patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours first and start at the lowest rate on the supplier's data sheet, then work up.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is caprooyl tetrapeptide-3?

Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3 is a four amino acid sequence with a short fatty acid tail, sold as ChroNOline. It is modeled on a growth factor and used for the look of smoother, firmer skin. It is a formulation ingredient, added to serums and creams.

What does ChroNOline do for skin?

It supports the structural proteins that anchor the outer skin to the dermis, so skin looks firmer and fine lines look softer. In the supplier's study, a 2.5% serum reduced fine lines and wrinkles by an average of 16% compared with placebo after 28 days.

How long does ChroNOline take to work?

In the supplier's studies, results were measured at 28 days, with larger changes in mature skin at two months. Ultrasound changes were measured after 168 days. Plan on at least four weeks of twice-daily use.

Is ChroNOline a growth factor?

No. It is a short, lab-made amino acid sequence derived from a growth factor, not a full growth factor protein. Ingredients such as EGF (rh-Oligopeptide-1) are much longer sequences.

Can I use ChroNOline with other peptides or retinol?

Yes. It works by a different route than expression-line and collagen-supporting peptides, so it layers well with them. It can be used in the same routine as retinol; apply retinol at night if your skin is sensitive.

Can ChroNOline help the look of stretch marks?

Clariant lists a smoother, less visible look of stretch marks among its claims. Independent published data on this use were not found, so consider it supplier data.

Shop and Learn More

Skin Perfection does not currently sell ChroNOline. For a related growth-factor-type ingredient, see the Epidermal Growth Factor Serum Booster and our EGF glossary entry. For collagen support through a different pathway, try Syn-Coll Peptide Serum Booster, and read Peptide Boosters vs Growth Factor Serums.

Sources

• Bilodeau D. Drawing the Line on Wrinkles by Supporting the Dermal-Epidermal Junction (DEJ). J Cosmet Sci. 2008;59(4). Presented at the 2008 Annual Scientific Seminar. Journal of Cosmetic Science
• Clariant, ChroNOline product page (supplier data: INCI, claims, certifications). Supplier page

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.