Edelweiss Extract

What Is Edelweiss Extract in Skincare?

Edelweiss extract comes from Leontopodium alpinum, a small white flower of the high Alps that survives intense UV light, cold and wind. The extract is rich in antioxidants, especially leontopodic acid, and is used in serums and creams to help skin defend against environmental stress, support a comfortable, resilient barrier and soften the look of fine lines. The best-known cosmetic grade is Alpaflor Edelweiss CB from DSM-Firmenich.

EWG Skin Deep rating for edelweiss extract

Edelweiss Extract Quick Facts

How Edelweiss Extract Works on the Skin

Edelweiss protects itself at high altitude with a high load of antioxidants. In skincare, those compounds are used in three ways, according to DSM-Firmenich's technical information (supplier data, mostly lab tests):

• Antioxidant defense: the extract shows strong free radical scavenging and DNA-protection properties in lab tests, and it rebalanced UV-related oxidative stress markers at the gene level.
• Barrier support: in skin cell studies it raised genes and proteins that build the skin's outer protective layer, including transglutaminase 1, involucrin, loricrin, filaggrin and keratins 1 and 10. A stronger outer layer holds moisture better and feels more comfortable.
• Anti-glycation: glycation happens when sugars bind to collagen and stiffen it, which contributes to dullness, sagging and fine lines over time. In a DSM interview published by SOFW in 2021, the extract cut advanced glycation end products (AGEs) in skin cells by up to 55% at 50 micrograms per ml, raised the protective enzyme glyoxalase-1 by 65%, and blocked glycation of collagen IV by up to 67% in the lab. DSM also reports that it boosted collagen I and V in vitro.

In people, DSM reports that a 3% Alpaflor Edelweiss cream reduced fine lines on the frown-line area (glabella) 3 times better than placebo, with visible improvement in glycation-related signs on the forehead, upper lip and jawline after 4 weeks, and that 3 out of 4 consumers reported a more comfortable skin feel. These are supplier results; group sizes were not published in the sources available for this entry, and no independent clinical trial on skin was found.

DSM also tests the extract in scalp care, where it supports the look of fuller hair.

How to Use Edelweiss Extract

• Rate: use 5%, the top of the 3-5% range: 45 drops (about 1.5 g) per fl oz, or 90 drops per 2 oz. House rate: 9 drops = 1% per fl oz. DSM's in vivo skin study used 3% (27 drops per fl oz).
• When to add: stir into a finished water-based serum, gel or cream at room temperature, or add to the water phase during cool-down.
• Preservation: the extract is supplied without preservative, so the finished product needs its own preservative system.
• Pairing: edelweiss pairs well with vitamin C and other antioxidants in a morning serum under sunscreen, and with peptides and hyaluronic acid in anti-aging formulas.
• Storage: keep the bottle capped, cool and out of light.

Simple Edelweiss Antioxidant Serum (5%)

1. Pour 1 fl oz (about 30 ml) of a plain, preserved hyaluronic acid serum into a clean beaker.
2. Add 45 drops (about 1.5 g) of Edelweiss Serum Booster.
3. Stir for 1 to 2 minutes, then transfer to a dropper or airless bottle.
4. Apply to clean skin in the morning before sunscreen, and at night before moisturizer.

Plan on at least 4 weeks of daily use, the time frame of DSM's skin study. For more on the flower and its history in Alpine skincare, see the edelweiss flower extract guide.

Who Edelweiss Extract Suits

Edelweiss extract suits all skin types. It is especially useful for skin that feels sensitive or stressed, for mature skin concerned with fine lines and dullness, and for anyone with high sun, altitude or pollution exposure who wants extra antioxidant support alongside sunscreen.

Sensitive skin: patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours, then start at the lowest rate, 3% (27 drops per fl oz), and work up to 5% if your skin stays comfortable. People allergic to plants in the daisy family (Asteraceae), which includes edelweiss, should take extra care.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is edelweiss extract?

It is an antioxidant extract from Leontopodium alpinum, an Alpine flower. In skincare it is used at 3-5% to help skin resist environmental stress and support a comfortable, resilient barrier.

What does edelweiss do for your skin?

It supplies antioxidants such as leontopodic acid, supports the proteins of the skin's outer layer in lab tests, and helps limit glycation. DSM reports a 3% cream softened the look of frown lines 3 times better than placebo.

Is edelweiss a stronger antioxidant than vitamin C?

Some brands claim so, but those comparisons come from marketing materials rather than published studies. The two work well together, so many formulators simply use both.

Can I use edelweiss with vitamin C?

Yes. Edelweiss pairs well with vitamin C in a morning antioxidant serum, followed by sunscreen.

What percentage of edelweiss extract should I use?

Use 3-5%, with 5% as the top rate. That is 45 drops per fl oz; DSM's skin study used 3%, and sensitive skin should start at 3%.

Does edelweiss work on hair?

DSM also tests the extract in scalp care, where it supports the look of fuller hair. Add it to a leave-on scalp serum at the same 3-5% rate.

Is edelweiss extract good for sensitive skin?

It is generally well tolerated, and DSM reports that 3 out of 4 consumers felt more comfortable skin. Patch test for 24 hours, and take care if you are allergic to daisy-family plants.

Shop Edelweiss at Skin Perfection

Blend your own with the Edelweiss Serum Booster (Alpaflor Edelweiss CB). This collection also includes the Wrinkle Eraser Supercharged Peptide Serum. Explore more antioxidant ingredients.

Sources

• DSM-Firmenich, Alpaflor Edelweiss CB product information: INCI, origin, certifications, mode of action, glabella fine line and consumer results (supplier data).
• DSM interview on Alpaflor Edelweiss CB and glycation. SOFW Journal, 2021. PDF (supplier data)
• Skin Perfection, Edelweiss Serum Booster product page: 3-5% usage, preservative-free, certifications.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.