Epidermal Growth Factor {EGF}

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What Is Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) in Skincare?

Epidermal growth factor (EGF) is a signaling protein made of 53 amino acids that the skin produces naturally to regulate renewal of its outer layer. Cosmetic EGF is a lab-made, bioidentical version, listed on labels as sh-Oligopeptide-1 or rh-Oligopeptide-1, produced in barley, yeast or bacteria. It is used in serums for the look of smoother texture, finer lines and a more even tone.

EWG Skin Deep score for epidermal growth factor (EGF) EWG Skin Deep rating for epidermal growth factor (EGF)

EGF Quick Facts

Property Details
INCI name sh-Oligopeptide-1 (older labels: rh-Oligopeptide-1). Skin Perfection booster INCI: Water (Aqua), Phospholipids, rh-Oligopeptide-1
Common names EGF, epidermal growth factor, human-like EGF, recombinant EGF
Source Made by recombinant biotechnology, for example in barley plants, yeast or bacteria; older products used human cell cultures
Form Usually supplied as a dilute liquid; the Skin Perfection booster is encapsulated in phospholipid liposomes
Solubility Water soluble
Typical usage rate 1-10% of the liposomal booster (Skin Perfection product page); top rate 10% = 90 drops per fl oz
Temperature Add at room temperature only; liposomes do not tolerate heat
Skin types Normal, dry and mature skin; often chosen by people who find retinoids too strong

How EGF Works on the Skin

In the skin, EGF binds to receptors on keratinocytes and fibroblasts and signals them to grow and renew. Skin renewal slows with age, which is part of why older skin looks duller and rougher. Cosmetic EGF aims to supply that signal from the outside.

The biggest practical question is penetration. A 2016 review by Aldag, Nogueira Teixeira and Leventhal in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology notes that molecules larger than about 500 daltons do not easily cross the outer skin layer, and growth factors are much larger. Possible routes include hair follicles and sweat glands, and delivery systems such as liposomes are used to help. The review concluded that growth factor products can support the look of rejuvenated skin, but that "data are limited" and well-designed randomized trials are still needed.

The main human study of an EGF serum is by Schouest, Luu and Moy (2012) in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. In an open-label, single-center study, 29 women aged 39 to 75 with fine lines, sun damage and uneven pigmentation applied a barley-produced EGF serum twice a day for 3 months, with a basic SPF 30 sunscreen and cleanser. Clinical grading showed statistically significant improvement in fine lines, skin texture, pore size and uneven tone within the first month, with continued improvement through the study, and the serum was well tolerated. There was no placebo group, and the serum was a commercial brand product, so these results show what a well-made EGF serum can do rather than proving EGF alone caused them.

How to Use EGF

  • Rate: use 10%, the top of the 1-10% range on the product page: 90 drops (about 3.0 g) per fl oz, or 180 drops per 2 oz. House rate: 9 drops = 1% per fl oz.
  • When to add: stir into a finished water-based serum or lotion at room temperature, at the very end. Never add it to a heated phase.
  • Mixing: stir gently until uniform and avoid whipping air into the blend, which can stress liposomes.
  • Pairing: EGF pairs well with hyaluronic acid and with amino acid sequences such as Matrixyl synthe'6. It can be used in the same routine as vitamin C and retinol; if your skin is reactive, use retinol at night and EGF in the morning.
  • Storage: refrigerate the booster on arrival and your finished blend, label it with the date, and keep it out of light.

Simple EGF Serum (10%)

  1. Pour 1 fl oz (about 30 ml) of a plain, preserved hyaluronic acid serum into a clean beaker.
  2. Add 90 drops (about 3.0 g) of EGF Peptide Serum Booster.
  3. Stir gently until uniform, then fill a dropper or airless bottle and refrigerate.
  4. Apply to clean skin morning and night, focusing on the forehead, jawline and eye contour. Use sunscreen during the day.

Give it at least 1 to 3 months of twice-daily use, the time frame of the Schouest study, before judging results. For how EGF compares with peptide boosters, see growth factor serums vs peptide serums.

Who EGF Suits

EGF suits mature, dry or dull-looking skin, and people who want a renewal-focused ingredient but find retinoids irritating. It is also popular in routines after professional exfoliation, once the skin has settled. Because EGF is a growth signal, anyone who is pregnant or breastfeeding, or under a doctor's care for a skin condition, should ask their doctor before using growth factor products.

Sensitive skin: patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours, then start at the lowest rate, 1% (9 drops per fl oz), and work up toward 10% over a few weeks if your skin stays comfortable.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is EGF in skincare?

EGF is a lab-made version of epidermal growth factor, a 53 amino acid signaling protein the skin makes naturally. It is listed as sh-Oligopeptide-1 or rh-Oligopeptide-1 and is used for the look of smoother, more even skin.

What does EGF do for your skin?

It signals skin cells to renew. In a 3-month open-label study of 29 women, a barley-produced EGF serum significantly improved the look of fine lines, texture, pores and uneven tone, starting within the first month.

Is EGF a good alternative to retinol?

It is a gentler option rather than a direct replacement. Retinol has far more research, but EGF is often chosen by people who cannot tolerate retinoids, and the two can be used in the same routine.

Is EGF safe to use?

In the main human study the EGF serum was well tolerated. Because it is a growth signal, people who are pregnant, breastfeeding or under a doctor's care for a skin condition should ask their doctor first, and everyone should patch test for 24 hours.

What is the difference between sh-Oligopeptide-1 and rh-Oligopeptide-1?

They name the same ingredient, EGF. rh-Oligopeptide-1 is the older INCI name and sh-Oligopeptide-1 is the current one, so you may see either on a label.

How much EGF should I add to a serum?

The Skin Perfection booster is used at 1-10%. At 10%, that is 90 drops per fl oz, added at room temperature; sensitive skin should start at 1%.

Can EGF get through the skin?

It is a large molecule, and a 2016 review noted that molecules over about 500 daltons do not easily cross the outer skin layer. Liposomes and routes such as hair follicles may help, which is why delivery matters for EGF products.

Shop EGF at Skin Perfection

Blend your own with the EGF Peptide Serum Booster, and explore more anti-aging peptides to pair with it.

Sources

  • Schouest JM, Luu TK, Moy RL. Improved texture and appearance of human facial skin after daily topical application of barley produced, synthetic, human-like epidermal growth factor (EGF) serum. J Drugs Dermatol. 2012;11(5):613-620. JDD
  • Aldag C, Nogueira Teixeira D, Leventhal PS. Skin rejuvenation using cosmetic products containing growth factors, cytokines, and matrikines: a review of the literature. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2016;9:411-419. doi:10.2147/CCID.S116158
  • Skin Perfection, EGF Peptide Serum Booster product page: INCI, 1-10% usage rate, room-temperature addition, refrigerated storage.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.