Niacin

What Is Niacin in Skincare?

Niacin is vitamin B3. In skincare, the form you will almost always find on a label is niacinamide (also called nicotinamide), the amide form of vitamin B3, because it is water-soluble, stable, and gentle on the skin. Niacinamide is used in serums and moisturizers to support the skin barrier and improve the look of uneven tone, enlarged pores, fine lines, and shine.

EWG Skin Deep rating for Niacin

The acid form, nicotinic acid, is a different ingredient. It widens surface blood vessels and can cause a warm, flushed look, so it is rarely used in leave-on facial products. When this page says niacin, it means niacinamide.

Quick Facts

How Niacinamide Works on the Skin

Niacinamide is a building block of NAD and NADP, coenzymes skin cells use for energy and for normal renewal. In cosmetic terms, that translates into a few well-studied appearance benefits.

Uneven tone and dark spots

In lab models, Hakozaki and colleagues (2002) found that niacinamide did not block tyrosinase, the enzyme that makes melanin. Instead, it reduced the transfer of pigment packets (melanosomes) from pigment cells to surrounding skin cells by 35% to 68% in a cell co-culture model. In the same paper, 18 women used a 5% niacinamide moisturizer on one side of the face and a plain moisturizer on the other for 4 weeks; the niacinamide side showed significantly less visible hyperpigmentation and lighter skin readings.

Fine lines, blotchiness, and sallowness

In a 12-week, double-blind, split-face study, Bissett and colleagues (2005) had 50 women with visible sun-related aging apply 5% niacinamide to one half of the face and the vehicle to the other, twice daily. Researchers measured fine lines and wrinkles, spots, red blotchiness, yellowing (sallowness), and elasticity, and reported improvement in appearance on the niacinamide side.

Shine and oil

Draelos and colleagues (2006) tested 2% niacinamide on facial oil. In 100 Japanese adults over 4 weeks, the niacinamide group had a significantly lower sebum excretion rate than placebo. In 30 Caucasian adults in a 6-week split-face test, surface oil levels dropped, though the excretion rate did not change significantly. For shiny skin, that means a less greasy look through the day, not a change in skin type.

Barrier support

Because niacinamide plays a role in how skin makes its own lipids, it is a common pick for barrier-support serums. Skin that holds water well looks smoother and more even, and it tolerates other actives better.

How to Use It and Formulating Notes

• Routine: apply a niacinamide serum to clean skin morning and night, before moisturizer. In the morning, finish with sunscreen; brightening ingredients work best when daily UV exposure is controlled.
• Layering: niacinamide pairs well with hyaluronic acid, peptides, zinc PCA, and retinoids. The old warning about mixing it with vitamin C comes from tests at high heat and low pH; at room temperature in a finished routine, using both is common practice. If you notice warmth, use them at different times of day.
• DIY formulating: dissolve niacinamide powder in the water phase. It is heat stable, so it can go in before heating or at cool down. Keep the finished pH between about 5 and 7; strongly acidic formulas can convert a small amount to nicotinic acid, which causes flushing.
• Storage: keep powder sealed, dry, and away from light. Use a broad-spectrum preservative in any water-based product.

Who It Suits

Niacinamide is one of the most broadly tolerated actives: oily and combination skin for shine and pores, dry and mature skin for barrier support and fine lines, and anyone working on uneven tone. Sensitive skin: patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours first, and start at the lowest rate in the range (2% to 5%), or use a 10% serum every other day, then work up. Brief warmth or tingling at 10% is not unusual; stop if it persists.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is niacin the same as niacinamide?

Both are vitamin B3, but they are different molecules. Niacin (nicotinic acid) widens surface blood vessels and can cause flushing, while niacinamide does not. That is why skincare uses niacinamide.

What percentage of niacinamide is most effective?

The studies on this page measured changes at 2% to 5%. A 10% serum is a common strength and is what Skin Perfection uses. Sensitive skin often does best starting lower and working up.

Is 10% niacinamide too strong?

Most skin handles 10% well. Brief warmth or tingling can happen at first; if it continues, use the serum every other day or switch to a lower strength.

Does niacinamide cause purging?

Niacinamide is not an exfoliant, so it does not speed up cell turnover the way acids and retinoids do. New bumps after starting it are more likely a sign of irritation or a reaction to another ingredient in the formula, so stop and patch test.

Should I use niacinamide in the morning or at night?

Either works, and many people use it twice a day. In the morning, follow with sunscreen, since brightening ingredients work best when UV exposure is controlled.

Can I use niacinamide with retinol or vitamin C?

Yes. Niacinamide is often paired with retinoids to help skin feel more comfortable, and it can be used with vitamin C in the same routine. If you notice warmth, use them at different times of day.

How long does niacinamide take to show results?

In the studies above, changes in oil were measured at 2 to 4 weeks, tone at 4 weeks, and lines and texture at 8 to 12 weeks of twice-daily use. Consistent daily use matters more than strength.

Shop Niacinamide

Our 10% Niacinamide Serum pairs niacinamide with zinc PCA, hyaluronic acid, and aloe for a brighter, more even look. For firming peptides in the same routine, see the Liquid Facelift Collagen Serum and the other serums in this collection. For a full step-by-step routine, read How to Use 10% Niacinamide Serum, and explore related ingredients in our Vitamin B and hyperpigmentation guides.

Sources

• Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20-31. doi:10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x
• Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):860-865. PubMed 16029679
• Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006;8(2):96-101. PubMed 16766489

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.