Idebenone

What Is Idebenone in Skincare?

Idebenone is a lab-made antioxidant built on the same core structure as coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), but with a shorter side chain that makes it a smaller molecule. In skincare it is used at 0.5 to 1% in creams and serums to help skin look smoother, more hydrated, and less weathered by sun exposure. It became well known in the mid-2000s, when a clinical study tested it on women with sun-related signs of aging.

EWG Skin Deep rating for Idebenone

Idebenone Quick Facts

How Idebenone Works on the Skin

An antioxidant related to CoQ10

CoQ10 helps cells handle energy production and protects their membranes from oxidation. Idebenone shares CoQ10's quinone "head" but has a much shorter tail, which makes it smaller and lighter. As an antioxidant, it helps a formula defend against free radicals from sun and pollution that contribute to the look of fine lines, roughness, and uneven tone. See our CoQ10 glossary entry to compare the two.

What the clinical study measured

In a 2005 study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, McDaniel and colleagues had 41 women with sun-related skin aging use idebenone products at 0.5% or 1.0% for six weeks. Researchers reported improvement in skin roughness and dryness, skin hydration, fine lines and wrinkles, and an overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. It was a short study in a small group, so read it as encouraging rather than final.

Where idebenone falls short

A 2006 study by Tournas and colleagues in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology compared several antioxidants for protecting skin from UV light and found that idebenone, ubiquinone (CoQ10), and kinetin gave little measurable protection compared with a combination of vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid. The takeaway: idebenone is a useful antioxidant for the look of smoother skin, but it is not a sun protector. Daily sunscreen still matters most. Older claims that idebenone is "the most powerful antioxidant on the market" are marketing, not science, and have been removed from this page.

How to Use Idebenone in Formulas

• Usage rate: up to 1%, the top level tested. That is 0.3 g in a 30 g (1 oz) cream.
• Phase: idebenone is oil soluble. Dissolve it in the warm oil phase of an emulsion, or in a carrier oil for an anhydrous serum.
• Heat: warm gently, about 60 to 70°C (140 to 158°F), just long enough to dissolve it; avoid long heating.
• Light and air: idebenone is sensitive to light. Use opaque or airless packaging and add vitamin E to the oil phase.
• Color: it tints formulas yellow to orange. That is normal.
• Pairings: works well with vitamin C (in a separate water phase or product), vitamin E, alpha lipoic acid, and amino acid sequences (peptides).

Who Idebenone Suits

Idebenone suits normal, dry, and mature skin, especially skin with the look of sun exposure such as roughness, dryness, and fine lines. It works well in night creams and rich day moisturizers worn under sunscreen.

Sensitive skin: some people find idebenone irritating. Patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours and start with the lowest level, 0.5%, used every other night, then work up to daily use if your skin is comfortable.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is idebenone better than CoQ10?

Idebenone is a smaller molecule than CoQ10 and has its own clinical data for the look of photodamaged skin. Both are antioxidants, and neither replaces sunscreen.

What does idebenone do for wrinkles?

In a six-week study of 41 women, 0.5% and 1.0% idebenone products were linked to improvement in the look of fine lines and wrinkles, roughness, and hydration. It was a short study, so read it as encouraging rather than final.

Does idebenone protect skin from the sun?

No. A 2006 study found idebenone gave little measurable UV protection compared with a vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid combination. Wear sunscreen every day.

What are the side effects of idebenone?

Some people find idebenone irritating, with redness or stinging. Patch test first, and start at 0.5% every other night before moving to daily use.

Can I use idebenone with vitamin C?

Yes. Vitamin C in a water-based serum and idebenone in an oil-based cream or serum pair well in the same routine.

Is idebenone natural?

No. Idebenone is made in a lab. It is designed after CoQ10, which the body makes naturally.

Shop Idebenone Skincare

Find idebenone in the Ultimate Moisturizer for Day and Night Use, shown below. For a wider look at antioxidant creams, read our guide to antioxidants in face creams.

Sources

• McDaniel DH, et al. Clinical efficacy assessment in photodamaged skin of 0.5% and 1.0% idebenone. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2005. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2005.00305.x (41 women, 6 weeks)
• Tournas JA, Lin FH, Burch JA, et al. Ubiquinone, idebenone, and kinetin provide ineffective photoprotection to skin when compared to a topical antioxidant combination of vitamins C and E with ferulic acid. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2006;126(5):1185-1187. doi:10.1038/sj.jid.5700232

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.