Shea Butter

What Is Shea Butter in Skincare?

Shea butter is the solid fat pressed from the nuts of the shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa, also listed as Butyrospermum parkii), which grows across the savanna belt of West and East Africa. In skincare, it is a rich emollient that softens and smooths dry skin, slows water loss, and adds a creamy, cushioned texture to lotions, creams, balms, and lip care. It is one of the most widely used natural butters in cosmetics.

EWG Skin Deep rating for Shea Butter

Quick Facts

How Shea Butter Works on the Skin

Fatty acids that soften and protect

Shea butter is built mostly from stearic acid, a firm saturated fat, and oleic acid, a softer unsaturated fat. Akihisa and colleagues (2010) analyzed 36 shea nut samples from seven African countries and found stearic acid ranging from 28% to 56% and oleic acid from 34% to 61%. West African shea was generally higher in stearic acid, which makes a firmer butter. Together, these fats form a light, breathable layer on the skin that reduces water loss and leaves dry, rough areas softer and smoother.

The unsaponifiable fraction

What sets shea apart from most plant butters is its unusually large unsaponifiable fraction, the part that does not turn into soap. In the same study, triterpene alcohols such as alpha- and beta-amyrin, lupeol, and butyrospermol made up 22% to 72% of that fraction. These compounds, along with natural tocopherols (vitamin E) and catechins, give shea its antioxidant value and its comforting feel on dry, wind-chapped skin.

What shea does not do

The earlier version of this page said shea stimulates collagen, rebuilds skin, and protects against sun damage. We could not verify those claims for topical shea and have removed them. Shea butter is not a sunscreen; any natural UV absorption is far too low to replace a broad-spectrum SPF.

Raw vs Refined Shea Butter

Honfo and colleagues (2014) noted large variations in reported shea butter composition, which reflects origin and traditional processing. Buy from suppliers who share a certificate of analysis.

How to Use It and Formulating Notes

• On its own: warm a pea-sized amount between your palms and press it onto dry areas, elbows, heels, cuticles, and lips.
• Lotions and creams: add shea to the oil phase and heat it with the emulsifier to about 70 C to 75 C (158 F to 167 F), matching the water phase, then emulsify.
• Avoid graininess: shea crystallizes into gritty bits if it melts and cools slowly. Melt it gently, hold it at about 75 C to 80 C (167 F to 176 F) for 15 to 20 minutes to erase old crystals, then cool balms quickly in the refrigerator or freezer.
• Pairs well with: lighter oils such as jojoba to soften texture, mango butter for a less waxy feel, and humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid in emulsions.
• Storage: keep shea cool, dark, and tightly closed, and use it within about 1 to 2 years. A sharp, sour smell means it has oxidized.

Who It Suits

Shea suits dry, mature, and normal skin, and body areas that get rough. Oily or breakout-prone skin may find pure shea too rich for the face; use it in a light lotion or on the body instead. Sensitive skin: patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours first and start at the lowest rate, such as a lotion with a small amount of shea, before using pure butter. Refined shea has less scent, which some sensitive skin prefers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is raw or refined shea butter better for skin?

Raw shea keeps more of its natural unsaponifiables and tocopherols, so it is the richer choice for balms and body care. Refined shea is whiter, nearly odorless, and more uniform, which makes it easier to use in facial creams and fragrance-sensitive formulas. Both soften dry skin well.

Can I put shea butter on my face?

Yes, if your skin is dry, normal, or mature. Use a small amount at night or choose a lotion that contains shea rather than pure butter. Oily skin may find pure shea too heavy for the face.

Does shea butter clog pores?

Shea is a rich butter, so it can feel heavy on oily facial skin. Most people with dry skin use it on the face without issue, while oily or breakout-prone skin may prefer it on the body.

What happens if you use shea butter every day?

Daily use keeps dry areas softer and smoother because shea slows water loss from the skin's surface. Once or twice a day on hands, heels, elbows, lips, or as part of a cream is common. Stop if you notice congestion on the face.

Is shea butter safe with a tree nut allergy?

Shea is very low in protein. In a 2011 study, Chawla and colleagues found no IgE-binding soluble proteins in shea butter, and allergy specialists know of few or no reported reactions. Reactions cannot be completely ruled out, so check with your allergist if you have a severe nut allergy.

Is shea butter better than cocoa butter?

Shea is softer and melts more easily on the skin, while cocoa butter is harder and has a chocolate scent. Shea is usually the better choice for facial products, and cocoa butter suits firm body bars and balms.

Does shea butter work as a sunscreen?

No. Any natural UV absorption in shea is far too low to protect skin. Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day.

Shop Shea Butter

This collection includes our Regenerating Facial Cream Lotion Bulk Base, a pre-emulsified base you can customize with melted shea and other oils using gentle heat, and our 2.5% Retinol Moisturizer. For a deeper guide, read Shea Butter for Skin: 9 Benefits, How to Use It, and How to Pick the Best Unrefined Shea Butter, and compare it with our mango butter guide.

Sources

• Akihisa T, Kojima N, Katoh N, Ichimura Y, Suzuki H, Fukatsu M, Maranz S, Masters ET. Triterpene alcohol and fatty acid composition of shea nuts from seven African countries. J Oleo Sci. 2010;59(7):351-360. J-STAGE
• Honfo GF, Akissoe N, Linnemann AR, Soumanou M, van Boekel MAJS. Nutritional composition of shea products and chemical properties of shea butter: a review. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 2014;54(5):673-686. doi:10.1080/10408398.2011.604142
• Chawla KK, Bencharitiwong R, Ayuso R, Grishina G, Nowak-Węgrzyn A. Shea butter contains no IgE-binding soluble proteins. J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2011;127(3):680-682.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.