Collagen

What Is Collagen in Skincare?

Collagen is the main structural protein of the skin's dermis, the springy layer that gives skin its firmness and bounce. In skincare, collagen is used as a cosmetic ingredient (soluble or hydrolyzed collagen) that holds water on the skin's surface and leaves a smooth, soft film, so skin looks plumper and feels more supple.

EWG Skin Deep rating for collagen

The key point most people miss: collagen you apply does not become collagen in your skin. The molecule is far too large to pass into the dermis. Topical collagen works as a surface moisturizer, while collagen-supporting ingredients such as peptides, vitamin C, and retinoids are the ones studied for the look of firmer skin over time.

Quick Facts

How Collagen Works on the Skin

Why skin loses its firm look

Your skin breaks down and rebuilds collagen throughout life. With age, the rebuilding slows, and UV exposure speeds up the breakdown. The result is skin that looks thinner, less firm, and more lined, especially on the face, neck, and backs of the hands.

What applied collagen actually does

Molecules generally need to be under about 500 daltons to pass through the skin's outer barrier, a guideline known as the 500 Dalton rule (Bos and Meinardi, 2000). Native collagen is a very large protein, far above that size. So soluble collagen stays on the surface, where it binds water and forms a light, flexible film. That film is why collagen serums make skin feel smoother and look more hydrated within minutes.

Hydrolyzed collagen is collagen broken into smaller pieces. A 2020 review in the journal Antioxidants (Aguirre-Cruz and colleagues) describes topical collagen hydrolysates as safe, moisturizing cosmetic ingredients with antioxidant activity that depends on peptide size, with smaller peptides showing stronger activity in lab tests.

What the research measured

In a 2022 study in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (Lubart and colleagues), a cream with 0.2% micronized marine collagen was applied to fresh human skin samples in the lab for 3 hours. The micronized particles were detected in the outer layer and epidermis, while regular collagen in the same cream base was not, and surface roughness readings improved. This was a lab study on skin samples, not a trial in people, and it was sponsored by the ingredient's manufacturer.

For the look of firmer skin over months, formulators turn to collagen-supporting amino acid sequences. DSM's Syn-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) is designed to mimic the skin's own collagen signaling pathway, and its supplier data list a use level of 1% to 3% (supplier data).

How to Use Collagen in DIY Formulas

• Water phase only. Soluble collagen is water based. It will not blend into an oil without an emulsifier, so add it to an aloe gel, a hyaluronic acid serum, a toner, or a lotion.
• Add it cool. Stir collagen in during the cool-down phase, below 40°C (104°F). Heat can break down proteins.
• Film forming. Collagen leaves a film, so very high amounts can feel tacky. Stay at the product page rate.
• Preserve and refrigerate. Proteins are food for microbes. Use a broad-spectrum preservative in any water-based formula, make small batches, and keep the raw booster in the refrigerator.
• Pair for results you can see. Combine surface hydration (collagen, hyaluronic acid) with collagen-supporting actives such as peptides and vitamin C.

Simple firming serum (1 fl oz)

• 1 fl oz aloe vera gel base or hyaluronic acid serum
• 27 drops Syn-Coll (3%, about 0.9 g, the top of DSM's range)
• 18 drops Liquid Collagen Serum Booster (2%, the highest rate on the product page)

Add both boosters to the base, cap, and shake well. Apply morning and night under moisturizer. Store in the refrigerator and use within the base's stated shelf life.

Who Collagen Suits

Collagen ingredients suit all skin types and are especially welcome in dry, dehydrated, and mature skin that looks less plump than it used to. People with fish or bovine allergies should check the source of a collagen ingredient before use. If you have sensitive skin, patch test first on the inner arm for 24 hours and start at the lowest rate (1% for Syn-Coll, 0.5% for Liquid Collagen), then work up.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does topical collagen work?

Yes, as a moisturizer. Applied collagen holds water on the surface and leaves a smooth film, so skin looks plumper and feels softer. It does not add collagen to the dermis, so pair it with collagen-supporting ingredients for longer-term firmness.

Can collagen penetrate the skin?

Native collagen cannot. Molecules generally need to be under about 500 daltons to pass the skin's barrier, and collagen is far larger. Hydrolyzed and micronized forms are smaller, and one lab study found micronized collagen in the epidermis of skin samples after 3 hours.

What is the difference between collagen and collagen-supporting peptides?

Collagen is the protein itself and works on the surface. Peptides such as Syn-Coll and Matrixyl 3000 are short amino acid sequences studied for the way they signal skin to maintain its own collagen. For firmness over time, peptides are the stronger choice.

Is there vegan collagen?

True collagen comes only from animals. Products labeled vegan collagen usually contain plant proteins or amino acid blends that mimic collagen's moisturizing feel. Check the INCI list to see what you are getting.

Is collagen better than hyaluronic acid?

They do different jobs and work well together. Hyaluronic acid pulls in and holds water, while collagen adds a soft, smoothing film. Many serums use both.

Can I use collagen with retinol or vitamin C?

Yes. Collagen is a gentle, hydrating ingredient that layers well with retinol and vitamin C. A common routine is vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night, with a collagen or peptide serum in either routine.

How long does it take to see results from collagen skincare?

The hydrating, smoothing effect of applied collagen shows within minutes. Changes in the look of firmness from collagen-supporting peptides take weeks of consistent twice-daily use, so give a new routine time before judging it.

Shop and Learn More

Add Syn-Coll Peptide Serum Booster or Liquid Collagen Serum Booster to a serum you already own, or choose the ready-made Expression Line Deep Wrinkle Serum, which pairs Syn-Coll and Matrixyl 3000 peptides with hyaluronic acid. For lifestyle tips and a full guide, see 8 Natural Ways to Increase Collagen for Radiant Skin, and learn more about the peptide in our Syn-Coll glossary entry.

Sources

• Bos JD, Meinardi MM. The 500 Dalton rule for the skin penetration of chemical compounds and drugs. Exp Dermatol. 2000;9(3):165-169. doi:10.1034/j.1600-0625.2000.009003165.x. DOI
• Aguirre-Cruz G, León-López A, Cruz-Gómez V, Jiménez-Alvarado R, Aguirre-Álvarez G. Collagen Hydrolysates for Skin Protection: Oral Administration and Topical Formulation. Antioxidants. 2020;9(2):181. doi:10.3390/antiox9020181. DOI
• Lubart R, Yariv I, Fixler D, Lipovsky A. A Novel Facial Cream Based on Skin-penetrable Fibrillar Collagen Microparticles. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2022;15(5):59-64. Journal page
• DSM, Syn-Coll formulation guidelines, 2013 (supplier data: Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, 1% to 3% use level).

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.