DMAE

What Is DMAE in Skincare?

DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol, also called deanol) is a small, water-soluble amine related to choline. In skincare it is used for a quick, visible tightening effect: creams and serums with DMAE help skin look and feel firmer, especially along the jaw and neck. In cosmetics it is usually supplied as DMAE bitartrate, a stable crystalline powder.

EWG Skin Deep rating for DMAE

DMAE Quick Facts

How DMAE Works on the Skin

DMAE has been studied in people more than most firming ingredients. In a two-phase, randomized, double-blind split-face study, Uhoda and colleagues (2002) compared a 3% DMAE gel with the same gel without DMAE. In the second phase, with 30 volunteers, they measured a significant increase in shear wave velocity, a sign of a tauter, tighter skin surface, in the direction where skin was loosest. Rachel Grossman's 2005 review describes a randomized, placebo-controlled trial of a 3% DMAE facial gel used daily for 16 weeks. Graders measured significant improvements in the look of forehead lines, fine lines around the eyes, and lip shape and fullness, and those changes held through a two-week break. The gel was well tolerated, with irritation no different from placebo.

How it works is still debated. The leading lab explanation is a temporary swelling effect. Morissette and colleagues (2007) found that DMAE caused cultured rabbit skin cells and human skin cells to take up water into small vacuoles within hours, and 3% DMAE on rabbit ear skin thickened the outer layer within one hour. They proposed this swelling may be part of the visible tightening, and they noted that at higher concentrations in cell culture DMAE was moderately toxic to cells. A study in mice and human volunteers by Tadini and Maia Campos (2009) found a DMAE formula increased dermal thickness in mice and improved skin hydration in people, while skin mechanics in people were not significantly changed.

The practical takeaway: DMAE gives a fast, visible firming effect at sensible levels, and there is no reason to exceed the recommended range.

How to Use DMAE

• Apply a DMAE serum or cream to clean skin on the face, jawline, and neck once or twice daily.
• Expect a tightening feel within minutes and a firmer look with weeks of regular use.
• Pair with hydrating and firming ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, Matrixyl 3000, or Pepha-Tight.

Formulating Notes

• Dissolve DMAE bitartrate in distilled water or the water phase. In emulsions, add it at cool-down, below 40°C (104°F).
• Use 1-5% (1-5 g per 100 g of finished product). At 5%, that is 5 g in a 100 g batch, or about 1.5 g in a 1 fl oz (30 ml) serum.
• Check the final pH after adding DMAE and adjust as needed.
• Preserve any water-based formula with a broad-spectrum preservative and store sealed in a cool, dark place.

Who DMAE Suits

DMAE suits mature skin and anyone wanting a firmer-looking neck and jawline. If you have sensitive skin, patch test first (inner arm, 24 hours) and start at the lowest rate in the range (1%), then work up. If you are pregnant, nursing, or have a medical condition, check with your physician before use.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does DMAE really work?

In a randomized, placebo-controlled trial, a 3% DMAE gel used daily for 16 weeks gave significant improvements in the look of forehead lines, fine lines around the eyes, and lip fullness. A split-face study of 30 volunteers measured a tauter skin surface.

Is DMAE safe in skincare?

In the published human trial, a 3% gel was well tolerated, with an open-label extension of up to one year. Lab studies at high concentrations raised questions, so stay within the 1-5% range.

How fast does DMAE work?

Many people feel a tightening effect soon after applying it. The studies judged results after weeks of daily use, with the main trial lasting 16 weeks.

Is DMAE good for the neck?

Yes. Neck and jawline products are one of its most common uses, often paired with peptides and firming algae.

Can I use DMAE with peptides or vitamin C?

Yes. DMAE is often combined with peptides like Matrixyl 3000 and with antioxidants. Check the final pH of any DIY blend.

How much DMAE should I add to a serum?

Use 1-5%, which is 1-5 g per 100 g of finished product. At 5%, that is about 1.5 g in a 1 fl oz (30 ml) serum.

Is topical DMAE the same as a DMAE supplement?

No. This page covers DMAE applied to the skin. Supplements are a separate topic; ask your physician before taking any supplement.

Shop DMAE Products

Make your own firming serum with our DMAE Firming Powder, or choose a finished formula such as the Neck Lift and Firm Serum with 20% Pepha Tight or the Ageless Advanced Age-Defying Serum. See more firming options in our neck firming collection.

Sources

• Uhoda I, Faska N, Robert C, Cauwenbergh G, Pierard GE. Split face study on the cutaneous tensile effect of 2-dimethylaminoethanol (deanol) gel. Skin Res Technol. 2002;8(3):164-167. doi:10.1034/j.1600-0846.2002.10295.x
• Grossman R. The role of dimethylaminoethanol in cosmetic dermatology. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(1):39-47. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506010-00005
• Morissette G, Germain L, Marceau F. The antiwrinkle effect of topical concentrated 2-dimethylaminoethanol involves a vacuolar cytopathology. Br J Dermatol. 2007;156(3):433-439. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2007.07681.x
• Tadini KA, Maia Campos PMBG. In vivo skin effects of a dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) based formulation. Pharmazie. 2009;64(12):818-822. doi:10.1691/ph.2009.9636

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.