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Lotus
What Is Lotus in Skincare?
Lotus in skincare usually means an extract of the sacred lotus, Nelumbo nucifera, made from its flowers, leaves, or seeds. It is a gentle, antioxidant-rich botanical, high in flavonoids such as hyperoside and astragalin, and it is used to help skin look more hydrated, calm, and even in tone. Lab studies have looked at its effect on the enzymes linked to dark spots and to the breakdown of elastin.
EWG Skin Deep rating for lotus
Lotus Quick Facts
| Property | Details |
|---|---|
| INCI names | Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract; also Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Water |
| Common names | Sacred lotus, Indian lotus, pink lotus, lotus flower extract, lotus water |
| Source | An aquatic plant native to Asia; flowers, leaves, seeds, and roots are all used |
| Form | Water or glycerin-based liquid extract, floral water (hydrosol), powder, or an "oily extract" (lotus macerated in a carrier oil) |
| Solubility | Water extracts and floral waters: water soluble. Oily extracts: oil soluble |
| Typical usage rate | Follow your supplier's data sheet, since extract strength varies. In a 2011 lab formulation study, a cream with 4% lotus extract stayed stable for 30 days at several temperatures |
| pH range | Works in typical skincare pH of about 4.5-7 |
| Skin types | All skin types, including dry, dull-looking, mature, and sensitive skin |
How Lotus Works on the Skin
Most of what lotus does for the look of skin comes from its polyphenols, the same family of plant antioxidants found in green tea and berries. Antioxidants help neutralize free radicals from sun and pollution, which over time make skin look dull, uneven, and less firm. Lotus extracts are also lightweight and non-greasy, so they add a soft, hydrated feel to toners, serums, and gel creams.
What the studies measured
The research on lotus in skincare is promising but comes from the lab, not from controlled trials on people. Here is what has been measured:
- Enzymes linked to dark spots and loss of firmness. Kim and colleagues (2011) tested water extracts of lotus leaf, seed, and flower in test tubes. The flower extract inhibited DOPA-oxidase, an enzyme step in melanin production, by 50%, and at 200 micrograms per ml it inhibited elastase, an enzyme that breaks down elastin, by 54%. Adenosine, used as the reference ingredient, inhibited elastase by 26% in the same test. A cream with 4% extract was stable for 30 days, and creams with the extracts did not cause significant irritation in their testing.
- Melanin production in cells. Jung and colleagues (2014) tested a blend made from lotus flowers, roots, seeds, and receptacles on stimulated pigment cells (mouse B16F10 melanoma cells). The blend and its two main flavonoids, hyperoside and astragalin, lowered tyrosinase activity and melanin production without harming the cells at the doses tested.
Together these results explain why lotus is included in formulas aimed at a brighter, more even-looking, and firmer-looking complexion. Because they are lab results, we position lotus as a supporting botanical alongside proven actives, not as a stand-alone brightener.
Lotus extract vs lotus water vs lotus oil
| Form | What it is | Best used in |
|---|---|---|
| Flower or leaf extract | Concentrated water or glycerin extract with the most polyphenols | Serums, gel creams, eye creams |
| Lotus water (hydrosol) | Floral water from distillation; light scent, low actives | Toners, mists, as part of the water phase |
| Oily extract | Lotus macerated in a carrier oil such as sunflower | Facial oils, balms, the oil phase of creams |
How to Use Lotus
- Apply a lotus serum, mist, or cream to clean skin morning and night.
- It layers well with peptides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, and alpha arbutin. There are no known conflicts with retinol or acids.
- Use broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning, especially if your goal is a more even-looking tone.
Formulating Notes
- Add water-soluble lotus extracts and floral waters to the water phase. In emulsions, add concentrated extracts at cool-down, below 40°C (104°F), to protect the polyphenols.
- Add oily extracts to the oil phase; they tolerate gentle heat but are best added below 70°C (158°F).
- Lotus floral water can replace part of the distilled water in a toner or gel.
- Plant extracts and floral waters are a good food source for microbes. Use a broad-spectrum preservative and store in opaque, airless packaging away from heat and light.
Who Lotus Suits
Lotus is one of the gentlest botanicals and suits nearly every skin type, from oily to dry and mature skin. It is a good choice for anyone who wants antioxidant support without a heavy feel. If you have sensitive skin, patch test first (inner arm, 24 hours) and start at the lowest rate in the range, then work up. Anyone with a known sensitivity to the lotus plant should avoid it.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does lotus do for your skin?
Lotus adds antioxidants and a light, hydrating feel. Lab studies measured effects on enzymes linked to pigment and elastin, which is why it appears in brightening and firming formulas.
Is lotus good for sensitive skin?
Generally yes. It is mild, and creams with lotus extracts did not cause significant irritation in 2011 testing. Patch test any new product first.
Does lotus brighten skin?
In lab studies, lotus extracts lowered tyrosinase activity and melanin production. On skin, it works best combined with proven brighteners and daily sunscreen.
Is lotus water the same as lotus extract?
No. Lotus water is a light floral water with fewer actives. Extracts are more concentrated and carry more of the plant's polyphenols.
Can I use lotus every day?
Yes. It is gentle enough for twice-daily use and layers well with peptides, vitamin C, and niacinamide.
Shop Lotus Products
Find lotus in our Liquid Facelift Collagen Serum, which pairs it with peptides for the look of firmer skin. Explore related ingredients on our antioxidants and alpha arbutin pages, and read Antioxidants in Face Creams for how antioxidants fit into a routine.
Sources
- Kim T, Kim HJ, Cho SK, et al. Nelumbo nucifera extracts as whitening and anti-wrinkle cosmetic agent. Korean J Chem Eng. 2011;28(2):424-427. doi:10.1007/s11814-010-0357-6 (in vitro study)
- Jung SY, Jung WS, Jung HK, et al. The mixture of different parts of Nelumbo nucifera and two bioactive components inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis. J Cosmet Sci. 2014;65(6):377-388. Journal of Cosmetic Science (cell study)
These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.