Goji Berry

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What Is Goji Berry in Skincare?

Goji berry is the bright red fruit of Lycium barbarum, a shrub in the nightshade family grown mainly in the Ningxia region of China. In skincare it appears as a fruit extract (INCI: Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract) that brings antioxidant polyphenols, carotenoids such as zeaxanthin, and water-binding polysaccharides to serums, moisturizers, and mists. Formulators use it to help skin look fresher, more even, and better hydrated, and to support the formula's overall antioxidant profile.

EWG Skin Deep score for goji berry EWG Skin Deep rating for goji berry

Goji Berry Quick Facts

Property Details
INCI name Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract (related: Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract)
Common names Goji, wolfberry, Ningxia berry, boxthorn, matrimony vine
Source Dried or fresh fruit of Lycium barbarum
Forms Water/glycerin liquid extract, powdered extract, CO2 extract or seed oil
Solubility Liquid and powdered extracts: water soluble. CO2 extract and seed oil: oil soluble
Key constituents Lycium barbarum polysaccharides (LBP), zeaxanthin and other carotenoids, flavonoids, betaine, amino acids
Typical usage rate Varies by extract strength and supplier; follow the supplier's technical data sheet
Skin types All skin types, especially dull, dry, and mature skin

How Goji Berry Works on the Skin

Antioxidant support

Daily sun and pollution exposure generates free radicals, unstable molecules that contribute to the look of dullness, uneven tone, and fine lines over time. Goji berry is rich in antioxidant compounds, and its polysaccharide fraction (LBP) is the part researchers study most. In a lab study, Liang and colleagues (2018) exposed cultured human skin fibroblasts to UVA and UVB light and found that cells given LBP beforehand (best results at 300 micrograms per milliliter for 3 hours) showed lower reactive oxygen species and lipid peroxide levels, and higher levels of the skin's own antioxidant enzymes, superoxide dismutase and glutathione peroxidase. The effect ran through Nrf2, a switch cells use to turn on their antioxidant defenses. This was a cell culture study, not a study in people.

In an animal study, Reeve and colleagues (2010) gave hairless mice goji berry juice to drink before exposure to simulated sunlight. Mice drinking 5% goji juice showed less skin swelling after UV exposure and less UVA-related lipid peroxidation in the skin, and the UV-related drop in the skin's immune response was smaller as the juice concentration rose from 1% to 10%. The researchers linked the effect to the skin's own antioxidant proteins, heme oxygenase-1 and metallothionein. This study tested drinking, not applying, goji, and it was done in mice.

Neither study shows what a goji cream does on human skin, but together they explain why formulators value goji as an antioxidant partner ingredient. Antioxidants do not replace sunscreen.

Hydration and skin feel

The polysaccharides in goji are long sugar chains that hold water, similar in spirit to other botanical humectants. In a water-based serum or mist they add a light, cushiony feel and help the skin look more supple.

Carotenoids and tone

Goji is one of the richest food sources of zeaxanthin, a carotenoid that gives the berry its color. Carotenoid-rich extracts are used for their antioxidant character and for the warm, healthy look they lend to dull complexions.

How to Use Goji Berry in Formulas

  • Water phase: add liquid or powdered goji extract to the water phase. Heat-sensitive extracts are best added in the cool-down phase, below 40°C (104°F).
  • Oil phase: goji seed oil or CO2 extract goes into the oil phase or into an anhydrous serum or balm.
  • pH: fruit extracts are generally comfortable in the pH 4.5 to 6.5 range typical of facial products.
  • Color: goji can tint a formula pale orange or amber. That is normal.
  • Preservation: water-based products with plant extracts need a broad-spectrum preservative.
  • Pairings: goji works well with vitamin C, vitamin E, green tea, hyaluronic acid, and amino acid sequences (peptides). See our antioxidants glossary and amino acids glossary for related ingredients.
  • Storage: keep extracts tightly closed, away from heat and light, and use within the supplier's shelf life.

Who Goji Berry Suits

Goji berry extract is a gentle, well-tolerated botanical that suits most skin types. It is a good fit for dull, tired-looking, dry, or mature skin, and for anyone who wants more antioxidant support in a daily routine.

Sensitive skin: goji belongs to the nightshade family, so anyone with a known nightshade sensitivity should avoid it. For sensitive skin, patch test first on the inner arm for 24 hours and start with the lowest recommended amount of any product, then work up.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does goji berry do for your skin?

Goji berry extract adds antioxidants and water-binding polysaccharides to skincare. It helps skin look fresher, more radiant, and more hydrated. It also supports a formula's defense against the look of environmental aging from sun and pollution.

Is goji berry good for anti-aging skincare?

Goji is a useful antioxidant partner in anti-aging formulas. Lab work on its polysaccharides measured stronger antioxidant defenses in UV-exposed skin cells, and a mouse study linked goji juice to less UV-related skin swelling. It works best alongside daily sunscreen and proven actives such as amino acid sequences.

Is eating goji berries the same as using them on skin?

No. Eating goji delivers nutrients through the diet, while a topical extract acts on the skin surface. The mouse study described above tested drinking goji juice, so its results should not be read as proof of what a cream does.

Can I use goji berry with vitamin C or retinol?

Yes. Goji pairs well with vitamin C for a stronger antioxidant routine. It is gentle enough to use alongside retinol or bakuchiol products.

Is goji berry safe for sensitive skin?

Generally yes, unless you are sensitive to nightshades, the plant family goji belongs to. Patch test on the inner arm for 24 hours and introduce one new product at a time.

Does goji berry help with dark spots?

Goji is not a dedicated brightening active, but its antioxidants and carotenoids help dull skin look more even and radiant. For the look of dark spots, pair it with ingredients such as vitamin C and daily sunscreen.

Shop Goji Berry Skincare

Find goji berry in the Ageless Advanced Age-Defying Serum and the Liquid Facelift Collagen Serum, or browse every product in this collection below. For a full guide to building an antioxidant routine, see our antioxidant serum guide.

Sources

  • Liang B, Peng L, Li R, et al. Lycium barbarum polysaccharide protects HSF cells against ultraviolet-induced damage through the activation of Nrf2. Cellular & Molecular Biology Letters. 2018;23:18. doi:10.1186/s11658-018-0084-2 (cell culture study)
  • Reeve VE, et al. Mice drinking goji berry juice (Lycium barbarum) are protected from UV radiation-induced skin damage via antioxidant pathways. Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences. 2010;9(4):601-607. PubMed 20354657 (mouse study, oral)

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.