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Marine Plankton
What Is Marine Plankton in Skincare?
Marine plankton extract is an ingredient made from phytoplankton, the microscopic algae that drift in the ocean and make their food from sunlight. In skincare it appears on labels as Plankton Extract or under the name of a specific microalga, and it brings polysaccharides, amino acids, carotenoids, vitamins, and minerals to serums and creams. Formulators use it to help skin look more hydrated, smoother, and more radiant, and to add antioxidant support to a formula.
EWG Skin Deep rating for Marine Plankton
Marine Plankton Quick Facts
| Property | Details |
|---|---|
| INCI name | Plankton Extract; specific microalgae are listed by name (for example Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Dunaliella Salina Extract) |
| Common names | Phytoplankton, marine plankton, microalgae extract |
| Source | Cultivated or harvested marine microalgae, often grown in controlled tanks or photobioreactors |
| Forms | Liquid extract (usually in water, glycerin, or butylene glycol) or powder |
| Solubility | Water soluble in most cosmetic grades |
| Key constituents | Polysaccharides, amino acids, carotenoids (such as beta-carotene), vitamins, trace minerals, enzymes such as superoxide dismutase in some species |
| Typical usage rate | Varies widely by species and extract strength; follow the supplier's technical data sheet |
| Skin types | All skin types, especially dry, dehydrated, dull, and mature skin |
How Marine Plankton Works on the Skin
Hydration from polysaccharides
Microalgae produce long sugar chains (polysaccharides) that hold water and form a light, flexible film on the skin. A 2017 review of marine microalgae in cosmetics by Mourelle, Gómez, and Legido describes these polysaccharides as both moisturizers and natural thickeners, with Chlorella given as an example. This is why plankton extracts often show up in hydrating serums and gels.
Antioxidant compounds
Because phytoplankton live in strong sunlight, they make protective pigments and antioxidants. The same review lists carotenoids such as beta-carotene and astaxanthin, vitamin E from certain species, and beta-glucans as the main antioxidant compounds of interest. In a formula, these help defend against free radicals from sun and pollution, which contribute to the look of dullness and fine lines. They do not replace sunscreen.
What the human evidence shows
The honest answer is that human research on plankton extracts is limited. The 2017 review notes there are very few studies on cosmetic uses and that most claims come from product launches, patents, and lab work. The one human study it describes in detail used a microalgae-enriched marine mud: 20 volunteers applied it to the forearm for 15 minutes a day for two weeks, and researchers reported better skin moisture and elasticity readings. That supports plankton as a moisturizing ingredient, but it was a mud wrap, not a serum. Older claims that plankton is "pure collagen" or the same as human collagen are not supported, since microalgae do not contain human-type collagen.
How to Use Marine Plankton in Formulas
- When to add: add plankton extract to the water phase or the cool-down phase below 40°C (104°F). Enzymes and some vitamins are heat sensitive.
- pH: most plankton extracts are stable in the pH 5.0 to 6.5 range used for face serums and creams.
- Pairings: pairs well with hyaluronic acid, amino acid sequences (peptides) such as Argireline, and other marine ingredients like algae and kelp.
- Color and scent: extracts can range from clear to pale green or yellow with a faint marine scent.
- Preservation: plankton extracts are nutrient rich, so water-based products need a broad-spectrum preservative.
- Storage: keep sealed, cool, and out of light; some suppliers recommend refrigeration after opening.
Who Marine Plankton Suits
Marine plankton suits most skin types. It is especially useful in products for dry, dehydrated, or mature skin, and in lightweight serums for oily or combination skin that still needs hydration.
Sensitive skin: plankton extracts are generally well tolerated, but anyone with a known iodine or seafood sensitivity should check with their doctor. Patch test any new product on the inner arm for 24 hours and start with the lowest recommended amount.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does plankton extract do for skin?
Plankton extract helps skin look more hydrated, smoother, and more radiant. Its polysaccharides hold moisture, and its carotenoids and other antioxidants support a formula's defense against environmental stress.
Is marine plankton the same as collagen?
No. Phytoplankton are algae and do not contain human-type collagen. Plankton is used for hydration and antioxidant support; for firming, pair it with amino acid sequences in the same routine.
Is plankton extract the same as algae extract?
Phytoplankton are microscopic algae, so plankton extract is a type of algae extract. Seaweeds such as kelp are large algae and give different compounds.
Is marine plankton good for dry skin?
Yes. Its water-binding polysaccharides make it a good fit for dry and dehydrated skin. In a small human study of a microalgae marine mud, researchers reported better skin moisture and elasticity readings after two weeks.
Is marine plankton safe for sensitive skin?
Plankton extracts are generally well tolerated. Anyone with an iodine or seafood sensitivity should check with their doctor, and everyone should patch test a new product for 24 hours first.
Is marine plankton sustainable?
Many cosmetic microalgae are now grown in closed tanks or photobioreactors rather than harvested from the sea. That gives a consistent, renewable supply.
Shop Marine Plankton Skincare
Find marine plankton in the Liquid Facelift Collagen Serum and the Expression Line Deep Wrinkle Serum, or browse every product in this collection below. For a broader look at ocean ingredients, read our marine ingredient skin guide.
Sources
- Mourelle ML, Gómez CP, Legido JL. The potential use of marine microalgae and cyanobacteria in cosmetics and thalassotherapy. Cosmetics. 2017;4(4):46. doi:10.3390/cosmetics4040046 (review, includes a 20-person, two-week human study of a microalgae marine mud)
These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.