GABA - gamma aminobutyric acid

What Is GABA in Skincare?

GABA (gamma-aminobutyric acid) is a naturally occurring amino acid that the body uses as a calming messenger in the nervous system. In skincare it is a water-soluble conditioning ingredient added to serums and creams aimed at the look of expression lines, and lab studies have looked at how it affects skin's support proteins. It is best understood as a supporting player in a wrinkle-smoothing formula, not a topical substitute for injections.

EWG Skin Deep rating for GABA

GABA Quick Facts

How GABA Works on the Skin

Expression lines (crow's feet, forehead lines, the "11s" between the brows) form where the same facial movements fold the skin thousands of times a day. Because GABA is the body's main inhibitory messenger in the brain, it has been marketed for years as a "wrinkle relaxer." It is fair to say that idea is still a theory for topical use. We are not aware of a published controlled study showing that GABA applied to the face relaxes facial muscles, so we do not claim it does.

Where the published evidence does exist is in the lab. In a cell culture study, Uehara and colleagues (2017) added GABA to normal human dermal fibroblasts, the cells that make skin's support proteins. They measured higher type I collagen gene expression and lower expression of MMP-1, an enzyme that breaks collagen down. A second paper from the same group reported that GABA promoted elastin synthesis and elastin fiber formation in the same type of cultured cells. These were lab results in cells, not tests on people, so they show a plausible reason to include GABA rather than a proven result on your face.

Supplier testing points the same way. Bloomage Freda, which makes the Gabacare grade, reports that a 0.3% GABA cream used for 12 weeks increased skin elasticity by about 10%, and that eye creams with Gabacare reduced average wrinkle depth by 12% at 8 weeks and 17% at 12 weeks compared with the same cream without it. This is supplier data: the brochure does not give the number of volunteers or the statistics, so read it as encouraging rather than conclusive.

What people do notice when GABA is part of a well-built serum is the overall formula at work: amino acid sequences such as Argireline that target the look of expression lines, humectants that plump the surface with water, and a smoother, softer feel. GABA is one contributor in that blend.

How to Use GABA

• Apply a GABA-containing serum to clean skin morning and night, concentrating on areas of movement: around the eyes, the forehead, and between the brows.
• Follow with a moisturizer to hold in water-based actives, and use sunscreen in the daytime.
• Give it time. Products aimed at expression lines are judged over 4-12 weeks of consistent use, not overnight.
• GABA pairs well with expression-line amino acid sequences (Argireline, Syn-Ake), hyaluronic acid, and peptides. It has no known conflicts with retinol or vitamin C.

Formulating Notes

• Dissolve GABA powder in the water phase. It dissolves easily at room temperature, so there is no need to heat it.
• Use 0.05-0.3%. At the top of the range, 0.3% is 0.3 g per 100 g of finished product, or about 0.09 g in a 1 fl oz (30 ml) serum.
• Avoid heating GABA with sugars or sugar-based ingredients; amino acids and sugars can react with heat (the Maillard reaction), which can discolor the formula and use up the GABA.
• In emulsions, add it with the other water-soluble actives during cool-down, below 40°C (104°F).
• Because it is an amino acid, it can feed microbes in a water-based formula; use a broad-spectrum preservative and store in an airtight pump.

Who GABA Suits

GABA is gentle and suits all skin types, including dry and mature skin. It is a good fit for anyone building a routine around the look of expression lines without injections. If you have sensitive skin, patch test any new serum first (inner arm, 24 hours), and when you use a concentrate start at the lowest rate in the range, then work up.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does GABA do for skin?

GABA is a water-soluble amino acid used in serums aimed at the look of expression lines. Lab studies measured more collagen and elastin activity in skin cells exposed to it, and supplier testing reported firmer-looking skin.

Does topical GABA work like Botox?

No. Botox is an injected prescription drug. We have not found a published controlled study showing GABA applied to the face relaxes facial muscles, so we describe it as a supporting ingredient, not a substitute for injections.

Is GABA safe in skincare?

GABA is a naturally occurring amino acid and is generally well tolerated at cosmetic levels. Patch test any new serum on the inner arm for 24 hours first.

How much GABA should be in a serum?

Bloomage Freda recommends 0.05-0.3% for its Gabacare grade (supplier data). Follow the data sheet for the grade you buy.

Can I use GABA with Argireline?

Yes. They are commonly paired in expression-line serums, and several of our formulas combine them.

Does GABA in skincare affect your brain or sleep?

There is no evidence that GABA applied to the face changes mood or sleep. Its role in cosmetics is limited to the look of the skin.

How long until I see results from GABA?

Allow 4-12 weeks of twice-daily use. The supplier's elasticity test on a 0.3% cream ran for 12 weeks.

Shop GABA Products

Find GABA in our Expression Line Deep Wrinkle Serum, the Eye Bright Argireline Cream, the Liquid Facelift Collagen Serum, and the Ultimate Moisturizer for Day and Night Use. Learn more about the amino acid sequence that pairs with it on our Argireline page, and read Peptides Over Botox for Expression Lines for a complete guide.

Sources

• Uehara E, Hokazono H, Sasaki T, Yoshioka H, Matsuo N. Effects of GABA on the expression of type I collagen gene in normal human dermal fibroblasts. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2017;81(2):376-379. doi:10.1080/09168451.2016.1238296 (cell culture study)
• Uehara E, Hokazono H, Sasaki T, Yoshioka H, Matsuo N. GABA promotes elastin synthesis and elastin fiber formation in normal human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2017;81(6). doi:10.1080/09168451.2017.1290518 (cell culture study)
• Bloomage Freda Biopharm, Gabacare (Aminobutyric Acid) product brochure (supplier data).

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.