Peptide Serums for the Look of Expression Lines

Forehead lines and the vertical creases between the brows are usually the first ones people notice on themselves. Three topical peptides are formulated for that specific job: Argireline, Snap-8 and Syn-Ake. This is what each one does, which lines it suits, and the exact concentration to use.

A question we get most weeks

Question: I have vertical lines between my eyebrows. What serum should I use?

Answer: For the creases between the brows — the ones people call the 11s — look for Syn-Ake, Snap-8 and Argireline. All three are topical peptides formulated to soften the look of expression lines, and they layer well together.

All three are in our Expression Line Deep Wrinkle Serum — Syn-Ake, Snap-8 and Argireline in a hyaluronic acid base. Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in skin and holds water, so it gives an immediate plumped look while the peptides do their slower work.

The gel base is oil-free, which suits blemish-prone skin.

Which peptide for which concern

Expression lines

• Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) — crow's feet, fine lines. Usage rate 2–10%.
• Snap-8 (Acetyl Octapeptide-3) — crow's feet and fine lines. Pairs well with Argireline. Usage rate 3–10%.
• Syn-Ake — the 11s between the brows, and forehead lines. Usage rate 1–5%.
• Inyline — expression lines. Usage rate 5%.

For the look of firmer, tighter skin

• Pepha-Tight — 1–5%
• Relistase — 4%
• Uplevity — 2%
• Progeline — 0.5–2%

For the look of filled-in lines

• Dermafill — 2%
• Matrixyl Synthe-6 — 2%
• Hyaluronic acid — as a base

For overall firmness

• Matrixyl 3000 — 3–8%
• Juveleven — 2%

Full usage rates and INCI names for all thirty-plus actives are on the serum booster conversion chart.

Make your own expression line serum

This is the simplest useful formula in our range, and it takes about two minutes.

You need

• 1 ounce of hyaluronic acid serum as the base
• 90 drops of Argireline, which gives you a 10% concentration

Method

1. Start with a clean, sanitised container.
2. Pour in the hyaluronic acid.
3. Add 90 drops of Argireline. Our house rate is 9 drops per 1% per ounce, so 90 drops in 1 ounce is 10%.
4. Cap and shake until fully blended.
5. Refrigerate what you do not use.

Apply to a clean, dry face morning and night, moisturiser over the top, sunscreen in the morning.

Want it stronger on the 11s specifically? Add Syn-Ake at 5% — that is 45 drops in the same 1 ounce base.

Three reasons people blend their own rather than buying finished: you choose the concentration, you know exactly what went in because you put it there, and one bottle of booster makes several ounces of serum.

If you want something immediate

Our Instant Wrinkle Eraser uses two film-forming ingredients that tighten as they dry, so the surface looks smoother straight away. Be clear-eyed about it: the effect is temporary and goes when you wash it off. It works best combined with peptides, which change how lines look gradually with consistent use.

What to expect, honestly

Topical peptides are not a quick fix. They are formulated to soften how lines look over weeks of consistent twice-daily use, not overnight. Anyone promising otherwise is selling you something.

What they do offer is control. You pick the actives, you pick the strength, and the number is on the label.

— Kari Thomas, Founder and Cosmetic Formulator, Skin Perfection

Argireline, Uplevity, Juveleven, Relistase and Snap-8 are registered trademarks of Lipotec S.A.U. Syn-Ake is a registered trademark of DSM Nutritionals. Matrixyl 3000 and Matrixyl Synthe-6 are registered trademarks of Sederma, Inc.

Cosmetic use only. These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.